Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahaha so you should with the power that things putting out Dave, mines only a single turbo straight RB25det :D

At Eastern Creek tonight

ET 11.930, 60ft 1.99, mp/h 122.1

When I can get another 1.8 60ft which will raise my MP/H a touch I don't think low 11's are out of the question but as you know Dave its easier said then done hahaha

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have 16inch Bridgestone Potenza St Slicks. There 225/60/16 but i dont think there going to give me under 2.0 60fts. I may source something else by the time the track re-opens. Im also getting a new turbo fitted as we talk so i should make some more power. See how it goes. It may even be sold by the time the track opens.

Well the turbo i had on it now was meant to have a 1.08 rear but it only had a .82 so im not too happy. That was on full boost @ 4k. So im expecting the T88 to be on full song by 5k and hold it to 8k. I'll find out next week when i dyno it. If its too big im going to sell it and buy something smaller.

Its Rb25 but its been bored out just abit. Im expecting abit of lag lets just see how much. Wish me luck until the cams come.

the engine came out of japanese police car. turb's appear std. running Mines computer, std dumps, custom jap front pipe with twin 3" pipe. 33 GTR cooler. dyno'd 342bhp @ 16psi. the MPH dropped after fitting 4'11 diff gears has run 118 with 4'3's so they are going back in asap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...