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PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
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cln Proficient

cln

Posted
Posted

Hi guys sorry if its already been asked but i really dont want to read 20+ pages!

My engine is getting tuned in a few weeks(rb25 conversion into a 32) and im using the standard rb20box for the moment. Im looking at changing gearbox oils as my clutch is getting installed later in the week so i thought now is a good a time as any. Its currently abit notchy from 3rd to 4th but i dont get any crunching in high gears etc. Ive read redline can be bad if your gearbox isnt on its way (ie bad syncros) but i dont really know if a 'notchy' gearbox is considered on its way :wave:. Im basically looking at any ways to give my box a easier life. Any info on the matter would be appreciated.

Cheers!

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Hi guys sorry if its already been asked but i really dont want to read 20+ pages!

My engine is getting tuned in a few weeks(rb25 conversion into a 32) and im using the standard rb20box for the moment. Im looking at changing gearbox oils as my clutch is getting installed later in the week so i thought now is a good a time as any. Its currently abit notchy from 3rd to 4th but i dont get any crunching in high gears etc. Ive read redline can be bad if your gearbox isnt on its way (ie bad syncros) but i dont really know if a 'notchy' gearbox is considered on its way :laugh:. Im basically looking at any ways to give my box a easier life. Any info on the matter would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Go for the Redline MT90 75w90 gear oil instead of the light weight shockproof. It will improved your notchy shifting.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
Go for the Redline MT90 75w90 gear oil instead of the light weight shockproof. It will improved your notchy shifting.

Hey mate

German Castrol...where can I get some you reckon?

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

I will get another kit and test the R33 which has been running 10W40 Redline for about 7000kms...I'm thinking of switching to the 5W30 in the R33 also...or even the GC if I could get it in both...depending on the price.

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Did you send in a VOA?

Si generally indicates poor air filtration.

What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Hey mate

German Castrol...where can I get some you reckon?

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

I will get another kit and test the R33 which has been running 10W40 Redline for about 7000kms...I'm thinking of switching to the 5W30 in the R33 also...or even the GC if I could get it in both...depending on the price.

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Can be found in Ebay.

Castrol Syntec 0w30

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
Did you send in a VOA?

Si generally indicates poor air filtration.

What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

Si and all metals in my UOA are pretty high comparatively. Redline will give higher wear numbers at first due to cleaning values. So its only the first and hard to tell. But if u looked at it at a glance, it would be no great. I'm doing more soon on the line and and sample in the FTO.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
Can be found in Ebay.

Castrol Syntec 0w30

thanks..

I have been ordering from Harold @ (0414369 926) Performancelub.com. Might be the same guy as the products are the same and the price is also...I didn't realise he sold Castrol.. !

I have decided to stick with reldine for the moment, do some more tests and see what happens.

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
thanks..

I have been ordering from Harold @ (0414369 926) Performancelub.com. Might be the same guy as the products are the same and the price is also...I didn't realise he sold Castrol.. !

I have decided to stick with reldine for the moment, do some more tests and see what happens.

I have seen your UOA and doubt you will have an accurate reading unless after 3 OCI, ester base Redline has an aggressive cleaning abilities and it will show higher wear reading from the metal it displace. I would say save your UOA test till at less 30k later.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
I have seen your UOA and doubt you will have an accurate reading unless after 3 OCI, ester base Redline has an aggressive cleaning abilities and it will show higher wear reading from the metal it displace. I would say save your UOA test till at less 30k later.

I was going to do another one just cos I'm intrested to see if the numbers come out similar.

Apart form that I've got a new batch of the 5W30 from Harold above and putting that in soon.

Next is the r33. I have been using 10W40 redline but I have noticed a bit of oil usage, not to much. SO I asked the boys if they reckon a 30wt would help say seal the rings a bit better. So I'm giving that a go also...

Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
Posted

Hey guys just looking at doing an oil change for my R34 GTT. I bought some Motul 300v 5W30 is that going to be okay? At the moment the max temps down here are around the high 20s/low 30s but avgs around mid 20s. The car currently has elf 10w/50 in it.

Also is 4L enough or do I need to go buy another 2L container? (was the only size they had)

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Hey guys just looking at doing an oil change for my R34 GTT. I bought some Motul 300v 5W30 is that going to be okay? At the moment the max temps down here are around the high 20s/low 30s but avgs around mid 20s. The car currently has elf 10w/50 in it.

Also is 4L enough or do I need to go buy another 2L container? (was the only size they had)

5w30 is good but do check your AFR if it's running rich or lean as too rich a AFR will increase fuel dilution in the oil thus making it thinner than 30wt.

Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
Posted
5w30 is good but do check your AFR if it's running rich or lean as too rich a AFR will increase fuel dilution in the oil thus making it thinner than 30wt.

Hey thanks mate, I actually read around a bit and ended up taking 300v back and getting 5L of the Motul turbolite 10w40. Was a lot cheaper than the 4L of 300v and as you mentioned I didn't want to run the risk of it getting 'too' thin.

Anyway all went well and the car feels so much nicer to drive :P

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Hey thanks mate, I actually read around a bit and ended up taking 300v back and getting 5L of the Motul turbolite 10w40. Was a lot cheaper than the 4L of 300v and as you mentioned I didn't want to run the risk of it getting 'too' thin.

Anyway all went well and the car feels so much nicer to drive :no:

Motul turbolite 10w40 is just a Semi-Syn oil, I would recommend at least a fully synthetic for turbo cleanliness and high temp protection. A wide spread 10w40 type semi-syn is not really a good idea for ring cleanliness i would think. Choose Mobil 0w40 or Delvac 5w40, whichever is cheaper. those are good oil at reasonable prices.

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