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Hey guys

Just went and bought 10w30 Mobil 1 for the r34 60,000km on the clock, I read above makes the lifters noisy.. but im not to fussed on that really..

Should it be ok or should I return it for 0w40?

And whats a good transmission and diff fluid for the R34 at 60k?? Car wont break 100 degrees even on spirted driving

Edited by DECIM8
Hey guys

Just went and bought 10w30 Mobil 1 for the r34 60,000km on the clock, I read above makes the lifters noisy.. but im not to fussed on that really..

Should it be ok or should I return it for 0w40?

And whats a good transmission and diff fluid for the R34 at 60k??

I think I would of gone for the 0W-40.

It all depends on how anal you are, the ticking/tapping sound isn't too troubling at first but after a while it gets annoying that something just isnt right with your car. Also if you get the sound when you change the oil, you'll always fun in underground parking :domokun:

Cubes - Oil pressure was a bit lower but should that be expected with thinner oil :X?

Also i went with the 10W40 this time around :wave:

Edited by Baconer
They didnt have it :| I did look but not there .. its mobil 1 gold if its any different ..

better than the crap penzoil ive got in it now

Maybe a 5W-50? I haven't had any experience with mobil1 gold before, is it any more expensive over just mobil1?

Edited by KeyMaker

have heard of some people changing oil filter every 2,500km (twice per oil change) but think thats just people being really picky. They are only $10 though so pretty innexpensive

Also Mobil1 gold (the 10W30) was something like $90

this Mobil silver (10W40) was under $45

Edited by Baconer

Yeah I think so cost me $80 .. seems the going cost for gold .. must be some supa dupa relabel crap lol

Why would you recommend 0w40 because the thinner fluid for start up or higher protection at high temps?

I took the advice of .. a more expensive oil is betta :domokun:

Edited by DECIM8
Yeah I think so cost me $80 .. seems the going cost for gold .. must be some supa dupa relabel crap lol

Why would you recommend 0w40 because the thinner fluid for start up or higher protection at high temps?

For both the thinner fluid for start and higher protection at high temps.

Fair enough .. ill use this as a break in oil then .. medium and then thin next time :domokun: its only 5000km .. 4 weeks easy lol

It depends on where you live too. If it gets really cold during winter where you are and you start the car at fairly cold temps, you'd want something thin enough for cold start ups and low temp protection, but also give you protection when its hot.

Im in sydney .. coldest ill prob see is about 12 degrees in the AM .. and the car idles for a good 3 mins before i set off anyway and then its run quite casually after that until oil temps are up to max .. so I think ill be right .. i dunno if you suggest I get a thinner w ill go get it..

Im in sydney .. coldest ill prob see is about 12 degrees in the AM .. and the car idles for a good 3 mins before i set off anyway and then its run quite casually after that until oil temps are up to max .. so I think ill be right .. i dunno if you suggest I get a thinner w ill go get it..

You should be alright. I live in Far north Qld and I won't use anything higher than a 5W.

In my opinion some people go overkill with there oils. Fair enough, that you visit the track pretty often, then you'd probably want to use the best then.

But for others that don't do track work, I don't think it's necessary to spend top dollar on a top notch oil that isn't going to get used to it's full potential.

I'm not saying to go and buy cheap oil, but rather something to do the job just right. Mobil1 for example is something I'd happily purchase, but I wouldn't pay $80+ on oil 'just because'.

Edited by KeyMaker
Im in sydney .. coldest ill prob see is about 12 degrees in the AM .. and the car idles for a good 3 mins before i set off anyway and then its run quite casually after that until oil temps are up to max .. so I think ill be right .. i dunno if you suggest I get a thinner w ill go get it..

letting your car idle for 3 mins when cold is doing your engine damage. when it's cold in the morning. hop in, start it. let it idle for maybe 10 seconds or so, then start driving. keep boost down, revs under 3000rpm and load not too much until it's up to temp then go for gold. but letting it sit and idle is the worst you can do to a cold engine.

Righto cheers.. Id also like to change over my oil filter, trans fluid and diff fluid and recommendations?

I hear the Redline Shockproof transmission and diff oils do wonders. If there's any clunkiness in the gearbox it gets rid of it.

It costs a fair dollar though. About $100 or so.

Otherwise I went and used the appropriate castrol trans and diff oils. seem to be doing alright still.

As for oil filter, genuine or ryco will do the job.

Edited by KeyMaker
  • 2 weeks later...

Well A week or so later I rekon my car is eatting more fuel than before .. Actually ive done 70km on a quarter and abit of a tank .. so I know its eatting more..

Whats the go .. Thicker top heat?

11. The faster you move the harder your engine has to work to push through the wind. Speeding can reduce fuel efficiency by up to 33%.

Mmm maybe thats the problem

Edited by DECIM8
have heard of some people changing oil filter every 2,500km (twice per oil change) but think thats just people being really picky. They are only $10 though so pretty innexpensive

Also Mobil1 gold (the 10W30) was something like $90

this Mobil silver (10W40) was under $45

no point doing this AT ALL

Filter isnt at its peak until 1/2 way though it lifecycle or over 5000kms. By chaging it more often its not filtering as good. Few tests prove this. However marginal there is def. no point chnageing it more often. I would just chnage it every OCI and use a good K&N oil filter or OEM Nissan. Ryco are shit quality.

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