Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep i was there today saw the gtr go on the dyno!

although there seem to be alot of problems on the dyno the r35 wouldnt stay in gear to complete the runs took about 4-5 goes before finalli producing the 366kw atw

also saw the sau stand next to the dyno!

and i just read yesterday about the r32 gtr that beer baron was building with the crate motor! i saw it and read that piece of paper that said 2007 crate motor and i was like oic thats the one i read about!

I would hazard a guess that the announcer doesn't know what he's talking about.

There is another thread floating around about the Haltech R35 that was producing 355kw @ 15psi during testing of the ecu at Gas Motorsport. The std boost is 10psi so.......

And this graph from the Haltech website,

2j30du0.jpg

Edited by jonn

It is super impressive how much power they have gained with just tuning and boost increase. what's just as impressive is how quick it is on road/strip/circuit to begin with considering it's packing "only" 290awkw from factory. Who would think a car that weighs so much, and has 20inch rims with road rubber, and packs under 300awkw would be such a super car beater. It just goes to show that torque, and response and how the power is delivered is so much more than just a peak number. and it shows how good the chassis and gearbox is. I have driven the standard car and it blows my mind, with 60awkw more it would just be off the planet! :D

It is super impressive how much power they have gained with just tuning and boost increase. what's just as impressive is how quick it is on road/strip/circuit to begin with considering it's packing "only" 290awkw from factory. Who would think a car that weighs so much, and has 20inch rims with road rubber, and packs under 300awkw would be such a super car beater. It just goes to show that torque, and response and how the power is delivered is so much more than just a peak number. and it shows how good the chassis and gearbox is. I have driven the standard car and it blows my mind, with 60awkw more it would just be off the planet! :laugh:

when did you end up getting behind the wheel anyways richo?

Giants car was it?

hehehe, if you had just panned to the right at any time, you would have seen me sitting my lazy ass on the floor inside the cage :laugh:

yep i was there today saw the gtr go on the dyno!

although there seem to be alot of problems on the dyno the r35 wouldnt stay in gear to complete the runs took about 4-5 goes before finalli producing the 366kw atw

also saw the sau stand next to the dyno!

and i just read yesterday about the r32 gtr that beer baron was building with the crate motor! i saw it and read that piece of paper that said 2007 crate motor and i was like oic thats the one i read about!

Why doesn't anyone come say hi?! :laugh:

The deal with that was that when the operator put the pedal down, it was shifting it down a gear... dunno why...

I would hazard a guess that the announcer doesn't know what he's talking about.

There is another thread floating around about the Haltech R35 that was producing 355kw @ 15psi during testing of the ecu at Gas Motorsport. The std boost is 10psi so.......

And this graph from the Haltech website,

The announcer doesn't really know what he's talking about ALL the time :laugh: but so many cars go by, who can blame him...

But one thing that was mentioned was that an aftermarket exhaust system they tried only netted them a gain of a few kw... i thought it was hard to believe with there being cats right in the dumps, but maybe you really need to push some psi through there before they start restricting too much... iono :P

but seeing the guys at GAS and Haltech were there in and around the car with the announcer during the dyno run, they wouldve told the guy the info he needed to blurb out

Maybe they did, but like others here they mistook "standard everything" as being the car completely untouched, rather than just standard hardware. Its a bit too late to correct the guy after he's said it.

There's already been a bit of news about the Haltech R35 GT-R, and their ECU does modify boost as well as the timing (and possibly fuelling).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...