Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Firstly, a thank you to everyone. You were all very nice and accomodating on the day.

List of People:

Below is a list of people who've signed up to get photos. On the day, a few people in addition to the list asked for photos of their car also. I need to compile a complete list of the people who want CDs. I shot the whole event, so it shouldnt be a problem to incorporate anyone else who wants a CD. The list I have is as follows:

Sl!m

Sinful

Nismo

CeJay

N1GTR

mr moo

ZCR

VZSS

CussCuss

jeffworld2

DriftGTS

**RB2530**

Primordial

jazzy_j

evil_weevil

msnismo

jeffboyracer

Payment:

Some people were able to pay me on the day - thanks guys! While I tried to speak with everyone, it was a bit of a hectic day, and I thought my time was better spent on the track getting photos. Those on the inital confirmed list who did not pay me on the day are as follows

Sl!m

Nismo

CeJay

N1GTR

ZCR

VZSS

jeffworld2

DriftGTS

msnismo

Wraith_Skyline

mr moo

I figure the easiest way to do this is for people to deposit money into my account (Ive been told you can add a comment with the deposit - please use your SAU ID in the comment). Otherwise, if you're in the Epping/Macquarie area, I can meet up with you. When you PM me your address (see below), please indicate if I need to provide my bank details to you.

CD Distribution:

The easiest way to distribute CDs would be via post. As such, I'll need everyone to PM me their mailing address. I'm planning to get the CDs into the mail by next Saturday, 28/06. I may get it in sooner.

Prints:

A few people expressed an interest on the day for prints. If you want a print, either from the CD or from a picture I post here, PM me. I'll do a specific edit of that photo for you, send it to you for approval, then send it off to print. The prints will all go into a single print run.

Photos to follow....

-Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225028-andrews-wakefield-photo-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 135
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Andrew,

I spoke to you a couple of times on Saturday about taking some shots of my car out on the track. I'm keen to get a copy of pics you took. please PM me with payment details.

Cheers Wayne

post more! :)

Will do :D

I spoke to you a couple of times on Saturday about taking some shots of my car out on the track. I'm keen to get a copy of pics you took. please PM me with payment details.

Which car was yours? I have a hard time converting names to cars....

(generally speaking, if you're posting, can you guys include some information to identify your car?)

p.s that's the print I want in A3!!! Awesome!!

I'll post up another one of you full lock in the mud. It might sway you... :D

-Andrew

Edited by TheAlfheim
I'll post up another one of you full lock in the mud. It might sway you... :D

-Andrew

uh-oh..sounds like il be getting more than one print, might have to make a series for the wall out of that spin off!!!

Awesome shots btw , can't wait to see the rest!!!! :)

Spanna's photo FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Andrew - photos look good dude, I'll send you a pm with some details

:)

hehehe... always takes an epic fail to generate a good shot, should try it some time ;) When Dave isn't following your line around turn 2 that is :D

Speaking of.... im awaiting that photo to have "EPIC FAIL" written across the bottom and posted somewhere!! lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...