Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

I see the V35 prices to have come down in a predictable gradient. I got my first 300GT Auto Sedan in 2005 for little over 25k (Premium with beige leather). I've waited this long to get the 350GT 6speed Coupe (I wished for back then) in 2008 for a little over 30k. The more there are in Australia makes it easier to insure and get finance etc (now there's a redbook value), but I don't see a massive drop lately - like I said I've been waiting for years to get a manual coupe and watch their prices regularly. I also waited with baited breath back when these could first come in and waited to pounce on the right one.

If your seeing large price differences I would be looking at ensuring the k's are correct (to good to be true usually is). I've found very light repair work on both my V35's - none of which was on the Jap report. My first 300GT had what was most likely the original oil! Like NISMO is saying - they are not petted like kittens over there before sold at auction (and auto/body repairs are usually poor quality).

I sure wish I had service history - for some strange reason they seem missing a lot of the time!!

Yep, I've seen a 2005 Coupe graded 5A and had decent under carriage damage when inspected. Like a car mounting a medium strip at speed.

Just be careful guys, that's it.

I think it's different when you shelling out 10 grand for a 15yr old R33 and different when it's 40grand for a 3yr old car.

When we (J-Spec) say 'no major accident history' what this means is there has been no structural accident history that would make the car a problem for compliance. We used to simply say 'no accident history' and then people would come on forums saying 'J-Spec are full of crap they say no accident history but the car has a scrape on the rear bumper'... you can't win! Blanket statements made by people on forums who don't know the full story is the bane of our industry!

Second, V35 prices are amazing at the moment and the exchange rate is awesome, the prices have definitely dropped considerably in the last few months. Prestige's email claiming you can get V35's as cheap as they claim has done a lot of harm because as people say for the really cheap stuff you will be getting a poorer condition car. However that said there ARE good bargains out there and for example people talking about spending $30k, it's actually HARD to spend that much on a series 1 these days so if you import yourself you can get just about any series 1 for well under this price.

so 2.3m landed for a late 05 coupe model in auto is good?

Hi Chris, you've kind of thrown me there quoting a landed price in yen so maybe I misunderstand, but if you mean 2.3 million yen in Japan then these days that's a little on the high side (though it depends on the car of course), if you mean around $23,000 landed then yeah that's pretty decent (again depending on the car).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...