Jump to content
SAU Community

The Battle For Japanese Supercar Stardom Begins Anew


Recommended Posts

"As much as things try to change, they remain the same"

I think IMO of course. that Again the GTR will prevail to be all round a better car. The Honda will be more agile but suffer being under powered yet again, and the supra will be a powerhouse but not as good at the twisties.

Looking forward to the mortal kombat!

Bets On!!

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well, this may be the last hurra for the super car race before they start the super battery race.

I agree, by 2015 how viable will petrol-powered sports cars be? They simply won't.

instant torque will make the cars of the future fun

Hmmm, instant torque...I have a vision *Electric GT-R sending all four tyres up in smoke with a gentle throttle push*

It won't be about linear 'revving the fikuk' outta the motor type performance, it'll be measured in how much power is needed at each wheel, with the batteries serving the precise amount of power needed every 1000th of a second, the only limit being how much torque the tyres can take before melting.

Omar - Theres more than heaps of oil still on this earth - that much has been proven so lets not jump on the "global crisis" bandwagon just yet.

Yeah you're right Adam, but the use of petrol for transport will decrease as oil prices rise and electric engines become more efficient and economical.

That's the time (around 2020 i reckon) when the GTR/NSX/LFA as we knew them in the 90's and 10's will be phased out through shifting mass economies.

*cries like a b!tch* :stupid:

But on topic, the battle between Jap supercars will only get more heated. New technologies will be pioneered in Japan, that's gauranteed. I'm just waiting for a flying GT-R.

Edited by R338OY
Okay so my mistake. But it is still a POS!!

You drive an R33 GTS-t, Mr Pot.

If it qualifies as a production model - even though only 20 of them are made, then IT IS STOCK. Stock is what comes out of the factory. Stock cars have warranty.

By your logic, then the NSX-R, the Porsche GT3 RS, the Lambo Supperleggera, Ferrari Scuderia, R35 V-spec etc... are not stock as well because they were modified at the factory?

Nismo bought used cars that Nissan had already sold to the public, and then did them up. The fact that Nismo offers a warranty is irrelevant to whether its "production" or not. Its also arguable if 20 vehicles counts as a production run.

The other cars you named were not "modified" at the factory. They were constructed at the factory, brand new, in that configuration. The Z-Tune, being a refurbished used car, is nothing like the vehicles you've named.

No, I'm afraid that you are the one who's failed. Wheels magazine tested a R34 N1 against a Holden Monaro a few years ago and it made more power on the dyno than it does on paper. The GTR's quarter mile was as fast as a 966 turbo - 12.6sec, and weighs about the same.

Maybe not 420hp I reckon more like 380 or so.. in the test it ran a 12.7 @ 178km/h, and produced 214awkw in 4th gear.

No, I'm afraid that you are the one who's failed. Wheels magazine tested a R34 N1 against a Holden Monaro a few years ago and it made more power on the dyno than it does on paper. The GTR's quarter mile was as fast as a 966 turbo - 12.6sec, and weighs about the same. So together with the power it made on the dyno at the wheels, they worked out that it had around 420hp - the same as the 996 turbo.

Okay so my mistake. But it is still a POS!!

If it qualifies as a production model - even though only 20 of them are made, then IT IS STOCK. Stock is what comes out of the factory. Stock cars have warranty. The Z-tune has warranty. Once you modified a car out of factory specs, then it aint stock anymore and you don't have warranty anymore also.

By your logic, then the NSX-R, the Porsche GT3 RS, the Lambo Supperleggera, Ferrari Scuderia, R35 V-spec etc... are not stock as well because they were modified at the factory?

Remember that the initial poster compared the stock R34 GTR to the NSX-R. By your logic, the two cannot be compared because the NSX-R is not stock.

Nissan figures for the N1 R34 GTR are the same as the normal gtr 280hp or kw or watever it is. i really don't care what wheels magazine did.

nissan did not modified the r34 ztune it is a NISMO built/badge vehicle. and your comment out the nsx-r, gt3 rs etc are also a fail because the ztune where produced in 2006 or 2007. and the R34 GTR had stop production in 2000. so if i remember nismo bought back a 20 r34 gtr and built them up to z-tune specs. so its very different to say a nsx-r or any other of the cars u mention.

also you fail if you think the s2000 is a pos...

open your mind ... GTR isn't the be all and end all of cars

Edited by [Michael]
Nissan figures for the N1 R34 GTR are the same as the normal gtr 280hp or kw or watever it is. i really don't care what wheels magazine did.

If you know anything about GTR's at all, then you should know that the claimed "280hp" is BS. From the R32 to the R34, GTR's made over 300hp - around 340hp for the R34 to be precise.

nissan did not modified the r34 ztune it is a NISMO built/badge vehicle. and your comment out the nsx-r, gt3 rs etc are also a fail because the ztune where produced in 2006 or 2007. and the R34 GTR had stop production in 2000. so if i remember nismo bought back a 20 r34 gtr and built them up to z-tune specs. so its very different to say a nsx-r or any other of the cars u mention.

So what if the Z-tune was made in 2006, and R34 GTR's stopped production in 2002 (not 2000!!), whats that got to do with it being stock? I don't get your argument here. Wouldn't want you to be my defense lawyer if i am on trial for the death sentence!!

Nismo bought used cars that Nissan had already sold to the public, and then did them up. The fact that Nismo offers a warranty is irrelevant to whether its "production" or not. Its also arguable if 20 vehicles counts as a production run.

The Z-tune qualifies as a production vehicle. In fact IT IS a production vehicle. A company has to make at least 15 cars ( from memory) in order for it to be classified as a production vehicle. When the Z-tune first came out, Nissan claimed it as being "the fastest production car in the quarter mile" It did it in the low 10s.

Anyway, my point to the guy who claimed that the NSX-R is faster than a R34 GTR is that he is wrong. If he compared apples with apples ie, NSX-R vs N1 GTR then im sure the NSX-R aint faster in the quarter.

You drive an R33 GTS-t, Mr Pot.

What's that got to do with my opinion? And you drive a what....V35? Besides, at least im smart enough to spend 20 grand on a 33 GTST, rather then blow 60 odd grand on a POS poser S2000!!

Finally last i recall, this is a Nissan forum isn't it? Judging from the majority of replies, it seems like i've stumbled onto some fan boy's try hard Honduhhh forum....

Edited by skyline_man

How is this me being wrong?

"Anyway, my point to the guy who claimed that the NSX-R is faster than a R34 GTR is that he is wrong."

The NSX type S trounced the R33 Vspec in this one...

And then the R34 in this one

Both completely stock.

Wheres the argument here?

^^ Do you know how to read? the comparison is between the R34 GTR N1 vs NSX-R - not the R33 GTR or normal R34 GTR!! You show me a video of the N1 getting beaten by the NSX-R or S or W or Z or whatever that comes out from the Honda factory and i'll admit that the NSX is faster than a R34 GTR.

skyline_man; you miss the point the Z-tune is a NISMO built/badge vehicle not Nissan

Yeah, but it is still a production car. But never mind the Z tune. My point is that no NSX can beat the N1 in the quarter. Don't tell me that the N1 is a Nismo tune as well!!

Edited by skyline_man

Skyline man: Re the Z tune: The entire car is essentially handmade, with the car being completely stripped and re-built from the chassis up.

production car

pro·duc·tion car (plural pro·duc·tion cars)

noun Definition: car manufactured on production line: a car of a type manufactured in large numbers on a production line for general use

Stripping a car and modifying it, isn't production.

7:54 - Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 [citation needed]

7:55 - Caterham R500 Superlight, 233 PS/460 kg, Robert Nearn (EVO magazine 07/00)

7:55 - Ferrari F430 F1, 490 PS/1493 kg (sport auto 01/06)

7:56 - Porsche 996 Turbo (sport auto 06/00)

7:56 - Honda NSX-R, 280 PS/1270 kg, Incomplete lap, Motoharu Kurosawa, (best MOTOring 08/02)

Can anyone shed any light on the official time for the NSX as it was an incomplete lap?

And does anyone know the spec of the R34 in this list?

4.7 not bad.. bit slower than the stock r32 gtr time of 4.7 0-62mph.. nice work.. but the ring time... much much better than the r32.. like 20secs faster lol

R34 specs are as follows

Just as it did when it left the factory, the 24-valve DOHC 2,568cc inline-6 develops 276 horsepower at 7,000 rpm and 289 pound-feet of torque at 4,400 rpm. It gets the R34 to 60 mph in 4.7 seconds, and the car runs out of speed at 168 mph

thats just for the stock r34...

so NSXR > R34 GTR

But N1 > NSXR and GTR R34 > NSX

and the R34 u just listed was stock but with the speed limiter removed.. it was the fastest production car around the ring.. including the NSXR :P

Edited by Bumblebee

I know the R was probably the most hardcore NSX out there besides the limited R GT and it gets to 100 damn quick.

NSX-R SPEC SHEET

Engine C32B V6

Position Mid Longitudinal

Aspiration Natural

Valvetrain Belt-Driven DOHC, 4 Valves per Cyl w/VVT

Fuel feed Electronic Fuel Injection

Displacement 3179 cc / 194.0 cu in

Bore 93 mm / 3.66 in

Stroke 78 mm / 3.07 in

Compression 10.2:1

Power 206 kw / 276.2 bhp @ 7300 rpm

Specific output 86.88 bhp per litre

Bhp/weight 217.48 bhp per tonne

Torque 304 nm / 224.2 ft lbs @ 5300 rpm

Redline 8000

Body / frame Aluminum Monocoque w/Carbon Fiber Hood

Driven wheels RWD w/LSD

Front tires 215/40R17 Bridgestone Potenza R070

Rear tires 215/40R17 Bridgestone Potenza R070

Front brakes Vented Discs w/Specially Developed ABS

Rear brakes Vented Discs w/Specially Developed ABS

Steering Rack & Pinion

Suspension DoubleWishbones w/torion Bars,

Weight 1270 kg / 2800 lbs

Wheelbase 2530 mm / 99.6 in

Front track 1510 mm / 59.4 in

Rear track 1540 mm / 60.6 in

Length 4430 mm / 174.4 in

Width 1810 mm / 71.3 in

Height 1160 mm / 45.7 in

Transmission 6-Speed Manual

Gear ratios 3.066:1, 1.956:1, 1.428:1, 1.125:1, 0.914:1, 0.717:1, :1

Final drive 4.235:1

Top speed 280 kph / 174.0 mph

0 - 60 mph 4.7 seconds

0 - 100 mph 11.6 seconds

Nurburgring time : 7:56 mins

I cannot for the life of me see a blueprinted GTR - which is essentially what the N1 is ( well...okay with a few more things than just that :P ) getting there faster and not only that but the NSX has always been lighter so how skyline man thinks a factory GTR is faster in a straight line, is a mystery to me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...