Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this similar to BAR? All my other boost gauges in cars have been bar, kg and psi?

The standard goes to 7 x 100mm Hg. How much is that in PSI?

Because I just got mine back from the workshop and its only running 3.5 and doesnt feel like its pulling hard at all. :D

Cheers :)

Ah okay sweet.

I've got a boost controller im going to throw on today.

I've been told to go no higher than 11psi on the stock tubro, can anyone confirm this?

mm hg

milimeters of mercury it stands for and im pretty sure 7 mmhg is 1 bar and one bar is 14.7 psi

What sort of car are u putting the boost controller on. Does this car have an aftermarket ecu because if it doesnt i wouldnt run anymore than about 9 psi and even running more than standard boost ur car may lean out under hard boosting. Simply because your standard ecu doesnt have the mapping to map the right amount of fuel in when it comes onto boostif u wind it up. If u have an aftermarket ecu then theres no problem with running 12-15psi as long as you dont hold it on boost for like ages. I ran my vl on 15psi for years without any dramas and that had an rb25 with standard turbo and aftermarket ecu and i used to drive that thing hard

Yeah I've had cars with aftermarket ECU's before running high boost, and I get all the leaning business.

Surely you'd have to be able to run atleast 10psi without it being too detrimental?

I can't imagine every boosted skyline out there running aftermarket managment..

mm hg

milimeters of mercury it stands for and im pretty sure 7 mmhg is 1 bar and one bar is 14.7 psi

Go back to 1st year highschool science (it could even be late primary school, so long since I did it) and review air pressure. It's 760 mmHg = 1 atmosphere (1 bar, 14.7 psi, 32 ft water).

The gauge says x100 mm Hg - therefore, any reading on the gauge has to be multiplied by 100. I doubt you could ever produce 700 bar boost pressure!

  • 4 months later...

sorry to bump up an old thread but atleast im using the search function.

Where on my standard r33 series 2 boost meter is 10-12psi of boost pressure???? i understand that the +7 = 14.7psi

ive done some simple maths and assuming my standard boost guage is correct 12psi should equal to something about 550-600mm/HG

and 10psi should be about 450-500mm/HG???

can anyone confirm this????

or correct me

and yes i will get a boost guage put on but not for a little while....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...