Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys/Gals,

i have a BNR34 RB26DETT, just recently my work machanic serviced my car and he put in NGK Platinum spark plugs after that the car started to misfire bad :D . i put NGK Iridium plugs back in and the misfire is a little better but it's still there. now it's getting worse and worse the car is splattering and when i accelertate car just splaters and doesn't go anywhere. would a retune fix this or is it deeper than that. any help and suggestion would be greatly appriciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/
Share on other sites

Coppers for the win at around .8mm gap

Check all the plugs are clicked in

Check that the contacters in the bottom of the coil packs are still there i had a set floating around the floor of my car put them in and was missing found the contacter on the floor put in back in and is good you will have to remove the rubber boot to find them also while your there give them a clean with some fine emeroy paper

If that all fails swap over coils and air flow meters only do one at a time to find out which is f**ked

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/#findComment-3983011
Share on other sites

Bit early for R34 coil packs to be failing.

Does it have an aftermarket ecu. If so id say it needs a retune and some fresh copper plugs.

Two words Race Pace

Racepace is were i got my stage1 done and were i normally get my car serviced. the 1 time i didn't take it there this happens. anywayz tried to book but Ben said he's busy for 2 weeks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/#findComment-3985989
Share on other sites

so is it constantly or just under boost?

constant. when engine is cold it's misfire is really really bad but once it's working temp it's kind of ok (but still there). must be foul on plugs until high temp burns most of it away hence ok when warm. what do u guys/gals think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/#findComment-3986292
Share on other sites

yeah loose plug then, check the coilpack loom and all plugs, even unplug and replug them all

if the coils were old and tired it would misfire on boost but be ok for normal load

if the gap was wrong it would be fine for normal load only on boost it would misfire

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/#findComment-3986303
Share on other sites

ok...thats the answer i been waiting for.....what i reckon is wrong is that the connector prong to the coil on misfiring cylinder isnt fitted into the connector properly ive done it myself....what you do is let the car idle and disconnect each coil connector until you find the one that doesnt make a diffrence and theres your culprit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/#findComment-3986933
Share on other sites

I just got my car back from the mechanic with the same problem. What the problem was, the coil pack wire was shorting out and caused the car to misfire like hell. He replaced the sparks (copper ones gapped to .8) due to them fouling up and changed the coil pack wire. Car is 100% better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226088-engine-is-fd/#findComment-3989955
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...