Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahha pedals yeah, and all the other stuff i wanted to do, grrrr, but ay s&*t happens as they say,

yeah be good to see there work, hmmm gonna see if i can make some more money somehow over web ill look at upping my kilowatts expectations

this sucks dude, i would go rebuild also, i have been through too many dud engines that i could have rebuilt and go more power and peace of mind (well more so then a second hand engine)

Nurse it around or use buses while you save your pennies for a rebuild, i may be looking at something similar shortly but not sure yet, ive been down the whole modifiying road and it wasnt as fun as i thought it would be.

yeah im saving the penies, not going to drive much so not gonna spend to big on fuel, tax back will help and selling my car back home, hopefully the start of the year while im on a training ex i can get it underway, ill have to have a chat with the skyline performance guys and see how it would pan out

would i require a dyno yune after this ?? and also if i get those parts, with a bigger turbo i could up the boost ???

  • 2 weeks later...

if going path of rebuild what other items besides whats below should i considure, i dont wanna open it up again, im looking at long term 400rwkw mark, going to do it all in in little parts at a time, so far engine rebuild would contain.

CP Pistons

Eagle Rods

Tomei Heads Gasket

ARP Head studs

New oil pump, new water pump, new bearings, possibly new main studs., new head studs, complete gasket kit, change the cams, possibly a solid lifter conversion. and other bits and pieces. 400rwkw isn't cheap.

Will also need to upgrade clutch, possibly gearbox internals, diff.

And there is probably more i haven't remembered.

yeah your right there, i think it would be more appropriate if i aim at the strong and safe 280 mark. i should be able to get that off a gtrs as well, and use the stock planum, would considure cut and plug for a forward facing planum cut some piping out to increase response.hmmmm so many options.

have already got

new

**oil pump,

**new water pump,

**upgraded clutch

whats the difference between main and head studs

what are you reffering to with regard to these pieces

**new bearings,

**a solid lifter conversion

You will need new big end bearings and new bearings for the crank. If you wanted to run ~400kw you would probably run some decently high lift cams and you need to get rid of the factory hydraulic lifters and get a solid lifter conversion to do that (tomei make them).

+ associated machining and assembly costs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...