Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am just about to have my car repainted and am going a color change. so my wheels will be painted to suit the car.

They are 3 piece an inner and outer and a centre. they are held together with about 60 bolts per wheel and i just had a tyre refitted and they are siliconed together as a seal. I would prefer to hve them powdercoated but am not sure if the silicone will be ok to be coated. what sort of tempratures in powdercoating baked on at?

Powder coat is baked on at about 200-250C

If you are coating the center and lip then leaving them whole will be ok; just remove the tyres, valves, and weights.

If you just want the centers coated then you'll need to split the rims and remove the center.

depends on the 3 piece, if its a sandwiched 3 piece (most non racing wheels) which are outer half, then centre, then inner half then you'll have to bust em apart... racing 3 pieces (VS-XX, Miester, some BBS etc) are centre, then the two halves with the centre bolted to the outside of the rim, these you can get away with not having to split the rims, just unbolt the centre.

either way best to get it done at a mag wheel repair shop (not a tyre shop) as they'll be able to torque the bolts up precisely and so on.

the rims are 9 and 10"

they are bee-R and are not sandwich fit. so i should be able to take the center out without having to split the rim.

hmmm guess i have to decide wither to leave the lip polished or coated. here i go hunting for some pics of wheels :D

taking em apart is no prob :banana: I have air tools and FWRRT FWRRRRT! and they will be apart.

from memory wheel center bolts have to be hand torqued.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
    • He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.
    • Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?
×
×
  • Create New...