Jump to content
SAU Community

Stereo install...need help badly

firebladejr

By firebladejr,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

firebladejr Collaborator

firebladejr

Posted
Posted

Hi ppl,

I have been trying to install a stereo for the last two days (damn long condsidering i've installed about 6 units in other cars). The car is an R33 S1 2door. I have fixed my previous problems but have now run into some new ones which I need help with badly!

Problems are:

I have nowhere to mount the stereo! The original brackets are missing and I'm left with a nice double DIN sized hole. I need to get some sort of frame to mount the decks cradle to, and will also need a single DIN pocket. Question is, does anyone know of a dash frame/chassis from another car that will fit to the skyline? I need the actual metal bracket that fits two DIN slots, one for the deck and the other for a plastic pocket.

Other problem is the aerial connection. It looks like it has a weird plug shape with 2 prongs?! Anyone know of an adapter to mate the jap aerial to an aussie spec aerial?

Thanks in advance for any help.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22656-stereo-installneed-help-badly/
Share on other sites
hippy Grand Master

hippy

Posted
Posted

go to ur local autobarn or car audio shop .. they will have the conversion adaptors for about 30 bucks ... so then u can install american or aussie stereos ... go to a nissan wrecker ... i think u maybe able to get brackets for pulsers and 300's to fit .. i'm not sure ... just find one that wrecks skylines :)

RON-15H Proficient

RON-15H

Posted
Posted

i had the same problem u will have to find other car brackets of make them ur self from cuts of metal which i did its a bitch to get the deck to be straight. You can get a din from nissan but they do cost $40 but the s15 one fits also which might be cheaper.

Do u have holes on the side of ya dash that u can screw onto if so ur lucky cause mine didnt even have that goodluck!

firebladejr Collaborator

firebladejr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

damn it!!!!! I bought the brackets from another wrecker (closer), but they aren't enough... the brackets I bought are kind of L shaped and fit deeper inside the dash, towards the back. There is no way I can fit a deck to them without it being about 3 inches deep from the facia. I spoke to a mate who recently put a stereo into an r33 and he said I am missing more brackets.

Is anyone on the forum wrecking an r33 with these brackets?? I would love to basically buy the whole bracket/cradle setup that goes with the deck right back to the internal dash rails.

firebladejr Collaborator

firebladejr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i finally just finished getting that mother(*@#$ in!!!

talk about an absolute **** of a job.

Now the problem is that the dash doesn't clip back in properly (the facia around the stereo) and there is a slight gap under the DIN pocket.

Oh... and another problem.. Now my passenger side headlight doesn't want to work. I took the bulb out (what a bitch that was) and it isn't blown at all ?? It looks like a bad connection or old wiring. Anyone else have this problem? And can anyone else tell me how in the hell I am going to be able to get the bulb back in the headlight with the clip?

Redbaboon Collaborator

Redbaboon

Posted
Posted

Firebladejr,

Go genuine with the brackets - you'll pay for them, but at least they'll be the right ones.

As for the funky jap aerial adaptor, I went to our old mate Dicky Smith and bought a single prong connector. Costs all of about a dollar. You can cut the old two prong connector off, and simple wire the new one on by twisting both cores together and soldering (obviously the ground sheath is the same).

I did this to mine, and there was no probs - surprised myself.

muck Community Regular

muck

Posted
Posted

didnt u get mounting brackets with your head unit?

they fit in there snug, but i couldnt get the console back on.. because it stuck out too far.. it was a simple case of drilling new holes in the existing mounting frames.. to get the unit to sit deeper in..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      R32 Nostalgia

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • niZmO_Man
      New R32 owner soon

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • Duncan
      1992 R32 GT-R Race Car

      By Duncan · Posted

      heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • Duncan
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Duncan · Posted

      meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...