Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally, I'd be going for a stock turbo if you don't want to break things...

I'm running a T04R on the same setup as you, except for ceramic coated pistons, and a flowed head...

I hit 4000RPM and just snap into massive amounts of torque...

Off boost drives really well, but once above 4000RPM it REALLY Hauls ass...

I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much.

Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing.

The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition.

As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's.

Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.

I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much.

Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing.

The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition.

As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's.

Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power.

And we know revs also kill motors.

I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power.

And we know revs also kill motors.

I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

What sort of rev's are you talking about?

The usual 7000rpm is fine for the rb30det.

With regards to the rb30dett running twin rb20 turbo's.. You've missed my point. :blush:

A 'single' rb20 or rb25 turbo on the rb30det's chokes them up reduces the available rev range. Causes detonation and has them living on the edge. You have to pull a heap of ignition timing out of it and even then it still pings so damn easily as soon as the weather warms up.

Mine with its stock turbo made its peak power at 4400rpm and felt like you hit the brakes at 5500rpm. Definitely not fun nor did it accelerate quick. Possibly with a 3.45:1 diff ratio but with the 4.3:1 diff ratio the lack of rev's absolutely killed its acceleration. The power band was compressed not widened. :(

No point having 110rwkw at 2000rpm unless your towing or pulling stumps. :(

Cubes, I am need of a turbo for my conversion and I was thinking something like this would be good,

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...T30/GT3071R.htm

With a .63 or .82 A/R,

Thats not to small is it?

Definitely don't go with the .6 on the rb30.

I personally wouldn't go any smaller than the GT3076 .82 on the rb30det which is what I went.

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up.

I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256.

It has heaps of mid range a perfect street setup. I can click third gear from 60km/h and torque away from rb25 and 26's making similar power that are sitting in second from 60km/h's without any problems.

And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down.

The GT3582r with a .6 rear will push 340-350rwkw spool slightly later than the GT3076r .82 and have slightly decreased throttle response. Which is most noticeable in the lower loading quicker reving gears.

Up from there is the Gt3582r .82 for another 40-50rwkw cams then GT4088r etc etc :devil:

IMO

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up.

I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256.

Its called a transposition error, you can tell because the difference is divisible by 9, ie...265-256 = 9 or example.........1170 or 1710, diff = 540/60 = 9, whenever the difference is equally divisbled by 9, its called a transposition error, common mistake in bookkeeping - I studied Commerce at UNI :-)

And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down.

Thats exactly what I am looking for, for the moment I am running an N/A RB30 5spd, and old uni'd half-shafts and 27spline'd stub axles, dont want the power delivery to come slammin on at 4000rpm!!!

Just curious about manifolds as well Cubes, those turbo's dont have internal gates and I cant fit in a high mount manifold - absolutely no way does it fit under the bonnet of my Z,

Are you modding the stock low-mount and sticking a blow-off valve on top?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...