Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A number of guys have been chasing me for the Noltec Adj Front Upper Control Arms for R32GTST, R32GTR and R32GTS4. With the take over of Noltec late last year, manufacturing was discontinued and they were no longer available. I have obtained a very limited number of components to make the kits and made them availabe only to SAU on a Group Buy. These are the "Motorsport" version which features reduced flex under heavy duty track use as experienced when using "R" type tyres and/or slicks. There looks to be only 25 kit sets able to be manufactured, so first in gets them. They are expected to take 3 to 4 weeks to manufacture. Genuine Noltec replacement bushes will always be available as they take the standard dimensions.

gallery_1903_124_23181.jpg

When they were available from Noltec they were $539 for the pair. The Group Buy price will be $399 including delivery. Please PM the order and, as usual, payment can be made by credit card or direct deposit.

Cheers

Gary

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can't believee there isn't more interest in these? Will they still sell for $399 if you can't get 25 buyers?

There are already 5 sets sold, only 20 to go. Plus I have a regular trade customer who wants 4 sets. So I have no doubt we will get to the 25.

Cheers

Gary

Well in that case can you please reply to the PM i sent. I'm chasing a set for a HCR32.

Sorry, we are currently 3 days behind in replying to PM's, we received more than 90 over the weekend. Be assured that every PM gets replied to in the order in which they are received.

Cheers

Garty

As I'm sporting too much negative camber how much positive camber would I be able to put on with these?

The adjustment range is the largest I have tested in any R32 upper arm, and I have tried a lot. There is over 8 degrees of camber adjustment, so if you can't remove the required amount of negative then there is something wrong with the car.

Cheers

Gary

How long are these expected to be available? I'm really keen for a set but wont have the money for about a week.

As per the first post, 3 to 4 weeks to manufacture the 25. How long it will take to sell the 25 is a hard question for me to answer. We are up to 11 so far, so at that rate maybe a week to 10 days until they are all gone.

Cheers

Gary

any chance of making them able to give more neg? mine on the shortest setting will only do just under 3 degrees neg from memory. I would love the scope to go up to 4.

ie. currently it seems they do -2.5 and + 5.5 (if as you say they adjust 8 degrees). Is it possible to see a +4 -4 split? stock they seem to have around half a degree or even a little more, so that range would be perfect. :bunny: all the arms seem to be too worried with removing neg, not adding it for guys on the track. :banana:

any chance of making them able to give more neg? mine on the shortest setting will only do just under 3 degrees neg from memory. I would love the scope to go up to 4.

ie. currently it seems they do -2.5 and + 5.5 (if as you say they adjust 8 degrees). Is it possible to see a +4 -4 split? stock they seem to have around half a degree or even a little more, so that range would be perfect. :bunny: all the arms seem to be too worried with removing neg, not adding it for guys on the track. :banana:

I installed a set today on an R32GTST and I could get 5 degrees negative, that's with 6 degrees of caster at a ride height of 350mm. On my own R32GTST I have run 4.5 degrees negative with some adjustment left also with 6 degrees of caster and 350 mm ride height. On 2 x R32GTR's I have seen over 4.5 degrees with caster at 5.0 deggres and a ride heigjht of 355mm. The 2 x Whiteline Camber Kits KCA336's in the same car made 3.4 degrees negative with a minimum centre of bolt to centre of bolt of 173 mm. The Noltec arm measures 168 mm at the minimum length so it must give scope for increased negative camber. I can't see how you couldn't achieve 4 degrees, unless something is bent, you are running much higher ride height or much more caster. If that's the case, what you could do is use the Whiteline offset bush in the outer joint of the Noltec arm, that would give you a minimum length of 163 mm. However you do need to be carefull as to how short you effectively make the upper arm, the shorter it is the more twisting load you put on the bushes and the quicker they wear out. Plus it will bind up on the extremes of suspension compression, not to mention cause the tyres to rub on the inner guard.

Cheers

Gary

i have some of these on my car, i'm running -3.3 at stock ride hight (yes, arms before shocks/springs was the wrong way to do it). I'm not sure what caster i'm running (got cusco adj rods).

Edited by sav man
The Group Buy price will be $399 including delivery. Please PM the order and, as usual, payment can be made by credit card or direct deposit.

Cheers

Gary

Good to see you've been able to get these items together, Gary - your efforts are much appreciated. They're just what I'm looking for too, my car's setup will really benefit from them :whistling:

PM was sent on 4/07/08.

Thanks, Cam.

I'll take a set too Gary, I need to give you a call for a couple of other things anyway.

Have you heard of any issues with the adjusters slipping over time?

Call me any time, I am at work more than anywhere else these day. Although I will get out to EC this weekend to catch up with the Melbourne based part of the race team.

There was an earlier "road" version that wasn't engineered for the loads that R type tyres and/or slicks placed on them. They flexed minutely and this loosened the retaining bolts over time. This later "motorsport" version is engineered for track use with sticky tyres, so there is no flex and the bolts stay retained. Obviously I would still include them on the list for spanner checking before each race meeting, but no more frequent than that.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...