Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

as the topic states my dipstick keeps blowing out. has anyone ever experienced this?

i had a quick search and nothing came up, also another thing to add is one of my belts is squeeling real bad when i go full throttle, i just had the belts replaced, was thinking that maybe my oil pump is seazing up causing the belts to squeel and excess pressure in the oil gallys,

the dip stick has blown out 2 or 3 times now, its annoying as my engine gets covered in oil everytime it happens, could someone please shed some light on why this could e happening

thanks

mitch

EDIT: forgot to mention its an R33 GTS-t

Edited by weeman1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227068-dip-stick-blowing-out/
Share on other sites

had this problem alot... at first it was because my catch can was setup rong.. so sort out your breathers and check if theres too much gunk built up in your rocker cover breathers and baffles...

The squealing on full throttle may be your exhaust manifold gasket.. Thats a common cause that alot of customers complain about when they say "belt squeal"

Also get a leakdown test done and a comp test done.. Because another reason may be too much positive crank case pressure, eg: rings are rooted, ringlands broken, pistons melted.

So thats a rough guideline to follow..

yeah exactly as above, my experience has been that its either

- catch can incorrect

- your engine is f*ked

i'm hoping for your sake that you have recently installed a catch can

if not, its time for a compression test and leak-down test and bring your wallet..

WOW, thanks for that fellas, would never have picked the squeal to be my exhaust manifold, my mate keeps telling me it sounds like ive got a leak there.

LTHLRB: no i dont thrash my car really, im lucky to hit full throttle once or twice a week, ive only got a 5 minute drive to work now so the car probly doesn't even warm up properly anymore, but the problem started about a month ago before i got this job. for the last year ive been doing 100 k's a day up and down the freeway

ive been running 10psi since i got the car, previous owner was running 8, at 10psi it creeps a little to 11psi

with the squeal i thought it would be the belts cause it does it on start up occasionally

does anyone know any good workshops around castle hill/baulkham hills? ive only just moved down here so im still new to the area

yeah i had this problem as well when i first got my car, it kept blowing dipstick out it was caused by a stuffed piston had a hole in it.

is your car still running on all 6? if it is it could be worn rings. Hey if ya want to ya could do a compression test ya self and buy a compression tester from autobarn or supercheap one what screws into your spark plug hole. all ya need is that a pen, paper and ya normal tools to get ya spark plugs out.

If ya want to check if ya piston rings are worn is to put a drop of oil down the spark plug hole, thats called a wet compression test it helps seal in the combustion pressure. good luck man hope its just ya catch can

thanks LTHLRB, what do you use to lube the belts up with? im going to do it this weekend, its too dark when i get home during the week

madevo3: how much is the compresion tester to buy? i think it would be a good investment

ill be checking my rocker cover breathers aswell, i hope thats all it is

thanks again for your help

hi, well i tightened up the belts, that seemed to stop the squeeling, also i found out i have an exhaust leak, im not sure if is from the exhaust manifold or the dump pipe, is there an easy way to tell?

also where would i get the gaskets from? i think i might just change them all

cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
sweet thanx, i thought you could get them there, just wanted to make sure,

when you say they're not cheap, how much do you think they will be?

Don't worry about the gaskets until you find out if you need a new engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...