Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok well i finished installing my turbo the other night and got it on the dyno... here are the results.

The turbo is a HKS 2530, i was running 10psi boost for this run.

It seems i need a fuel cut defender, and really need to upgrade fuel pump and reg from the standard crap ones i got.

what will be the max power std injectors can push?

what do you think my car will make once ive changed pump and reg? (i am running a std computer with injectors, but havee installed an SAFCII) i dont want to fork out for a complete computer.

I know this turbo's efficiency range is something like 1.2bar - 1.5 or something. i would like to run around 1.1-1.2bar if possible with new pump and reg.

any suggestons, ideas or info to improve its current state would be great.

heres the print out.2530dyno2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22721-dyno-results-with-hks2530/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why did you stop the power-run before 6000rpm? Due to the AFR being way too lean? Why didn't you use the SAFC to richen it up?

My car with stock turbo and injectors made 296rwhp, so I'm sure you can push your injectors to a bit over 300rwhp. A bigger fuel pump and fuel reg will allow about 340rwhp no probs.

Paul, yours does have 500 extra cc's to get there remember :(

bbenny: if youve got an SAFC then you should be able to tune that AFR graph to look a bit better, at the moment it looks like its leaning out toward dangerous at about 6krpm. However the RB20 ecu is very easily reprogrammed, and since your already paying for the dyno time, getting a remap by someone cluey shouldnt cost you too much.

Personally, if you dont plan on making too many changes to maps (like me:D), id sell the SAFC and let the ecu manage everything (probably cheaper and you get to change timing AND fuel maps).

Red17

Sorry, didn't read it was a R32.

I agree with Red17, Those AFR's are very bad, way too lean. I'm sure it will make decent power once the SAFC is tuned, or you have a remapped chip.

The way the dyno graph was pointing I'd guess you'd get 300rwhp easily at 1bar:D

i didnt stop it, it cuts out because its running too lean... i think it needs a fuel cut defender or something.

yeah i was hoping to make 300rwhp on stock injectors.

yeah i was contemplating whether to ditch the SAFC and chip it...

no the engine completely cuts out... so when im driving on the road i have the foot planted and then at around 5500rpm it just cuts out as if i took my foot completely off. its very sudden. its pulling hard then all of a sudden NOTHING.

Holy crap man....look at those AFR's after 4000rpm. Definately get the fuel pump first...and then see how much improvement you get. Standard injectors should be ok for around 210rwkw or so. If i were you i wouldn't be driving over 4000rpm....that's asking for trouble.

Scott

I put money on it been the fuel pump . Mine was the same.

Come into my work and grab a bosche 040 600hp internal.

Sounds like its hitting AFM cut as well which Glen at c-red can get rid of or lucas at speedworks. Don't put a shitty fuel cut defender on it when u can just program it out of the computer.

haha dont worry im not driving it above 4000rpm and ive dropped the boost to std! thanks for the concern guys.

yeah i think i will get the computer tuned.

Chris, im very happy with it so far... once i get the other problems sorted i think it will be shredding all those idiots in WRX's and commodores (even tho it already did, now just rubs it in a little more) hehe

Its the fuel pump!

I had similar 13.5 AFR under load when the fuel pump was dying...

I could see, with a gauge on fuel feed line, the rail pressure was dropping dramatically after 4500.

Upgrade the pump, its easy to do yourself on r32.

fuel pump upgrade link

(You make more power when its running lean like that...well until

it goes BANG anyway ;p)

I like the look of that graph though at only 10psi!

oh yeah, and toshi will sell you a remapped chip with fuel cut removed and mapped (timing and fuel) for bigger turbo

its not perfect though (only $160), as its not dynoed to your particular car but better than stock chip, you could still use the safc to fine tune it further (since you already got it)

or sell safc and get a proper chip remap on a dyno

Redline gtr: im not sure who will tune it at this stage. ive ben getting it the dyno runs at Procar - they are reasonable at $45 for a power run... and about $65 an hr to have A/F tuned...

gts-v-spec: yeah i was considering the drive there :)

yeah well ive already ordered pump and regulator so ill throw it in on monday night and get her back on the dyno and see what happens. if it still cuts out then im going to sell the SAFCII and chip it instead (bugger because i only put the SAFC in 2 days ago! gggrrrr) anyone interested in it? only about 2hrs use ;)

thanks for the instalation info Nissky

Oh and does anyone know a good place in Sydney to have the ECU tuned?

just get a Big fuel pump... dont worry about the Reg just yet.

Just get bigger injectors to go with the pump. And leave it to the stock reg.

Dont get a bigger reg to squeeze the most outta the stock injectors. You wont get much more so its not worth the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 🤣, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
    • This is mine, works a treat for the cars, suction is good, I use the Bissell clean and protect stuff I have found giving it a good spray and light scrub with the soft brush on the head of the nossle for carpet, and a rub with a microfibre for cloth seats and cloth door trims, prior to another quick spray before vacuuming it up works the best @GTSBoy You would surprised on what it gets out of carpet and seats that actually "look" clean, I recommend that you test drive yours when you have a little time to kill, then post pics of the muddy looking water that I believe you will find
    • I think even the "commercial" capacity ones that you would hire from supermarkets etc wouldn't have the capacity to do all that much in one go. I will go through half a dozen tanks of solution and dumps/rinses of the waste tank for one little 2 seat sofa. Or similar for one 6 footish rug. That's the price you pay for something small that only takes up a bit of cupboard space, instead of something that takes up the entire laundry cupboard or half the shed.
×
×
  • Create New...