Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im interested in getting one of these, but i dont think they are work 250 bucks ...

http://nismo.com.au/pricelists/General/Sky...s/R34airbox.jpg

dont suppose anyone is able ot make one? or has made one? or knows where to get one cheaper?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227322-anyone-able-to-make-me-one-of-these/
Share on other sites

its just some bent and cut sheet metal. make your own

i'll even go as far as to say the pictured one doesnt look like it'd be that effective, as its not insulated, and quite thin, therefore radiant heat will begin to soak that whole box after a while

have a search, theres quite a few threads, including DIY's about airboxes

Edited by Munkyb0y

as long as you run some kind of air feed into the box, the radiant heat from the thin wall wont have as much effect.

i use a copy of that partition on my blue car, just modified to take a 100mm intake pipe.

i just made an airbox out of perspex the other day.

i lined it inside with some silver faced heat resistant foam. but it didnt look very subtle under the clear perspex. so i thought i might paint it black on the inside.

in the process of testing paint on a scrap piece, i decided to see how it deals with heat.

i was surprised to find the perspex is pretty damn heat resistant. i placed a piece on my palm, and aimed a jet flame at it till it started to melt, but i didnt get any heat on my palm. i'm impressed !!!

so there you have it. perspex. easy to work with. easy to shape. cheap, and pretty effective.

obviously not painted yet. and i will probably only insulate the side, not top.

post-29392-1216045855_thumb.jpg post-29392-1216045873_thumb.jpg post-29392-1216046440_thumb.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

Tony just be careful with what paint you use on the perspex as it can actually change its heat resistance and course it to warp easier (found out the hard way)

Underbody car spray (sound deadner) is what we found to be the best, it will not only help to reduce the heat you can make your box out of thinner materials and apply a couple of layers of the spray to add the thickness :)

If your going to use heat resistant paint for it then paint both sides and clear the outside only :D

thanks for the tip

i was going to use some regular spray paint on it ('fiddly bits' quick drying). i already tried it out on some scrap pieces, and found it stuck quite well, and looks good. the matt seems to work better than the gloss too.

but i didnt consider that it might affect its properties. it doesnt seem to have penetrated the perspex at all.

why do you suggest painting both sides?

thanks for the tip

i was going to use some regular spray paint on it ('fiddly bits' quick drying). i already tried it out on some scrap pieces, and found it stuck quite well, and looks good. the matt seems to work better than the gloss too.

but i didnt consider that it might affect its properties. it doesnt seem to have penetrated the perspex at all.

why do you suggest painting both sides?

We used spray paint the first time and i scratch the service with some wet and dry the first time in aid of helping it stick. Now im not sure if it was the cheap paint and its materials or the roughing of the surface but after fitting the first box after about 15mins of testing we could smell it, pulled back into the pits and noticed that the paint had started to blister and was damaging the perspex :)

Second time around i tried a few test pieces as well to see what would work the best, the one that was painted both sides and cleared on the outside seemed to give it that little bit more heat resistance and didn't blister the paint at all (still not really showing signs of heat penetration) after 4 track days and 3 test days.

The one that was only painted on the inside showed signs of wear after a while and started to bubble. All i can put it down to is that its heated up from the outside in and baked the paint in the same way.

If you dont feel like paying the extra money for stuff like VHT you can use standard acrylic. In the final few coats add some clear to the paint to help thicken it before doing a full clear. We paint all our engines/pieces like this and never have any drama's from heat issues.

Main reason the matte working better than the gloss is its final finish when dry, to give the paint that gloss look it has other additives to do so (obviously :down: ) but unless you were to add a few coats of clear to help harden it then the standard spray paints heat resistance is only about 200'C (from memory) something like VHT is about 500'C and your acrylic paint if done correctly the same.

Try not to paint the box when its too cold/hot or you will have sticking issues as well and lead to a shorter longevity of the paint life.

Hope it all works out and post up how it goes :D

Cheers Ben

ok, thanks ben

at this stage i'm thinking its easier to buy some black perspex :down:

will keep you updated

:) i said the samething to myself afterwards as well but its all a learning curve hey.

Only reason i used clear was because we had it laying around and i was going to get artsy fartsy and spray it with a carbon fibre look :D

Can someone host some pics for me and I'll show you my go at something similar ?

Email me [email protected] and I'll send them to you !

Pete just sign up and make your own account on photobucket or use SAU to host them in your control settings :banana:

what kind of temps would you expect to see at the airbox anyway?

i cant imagine its over 100c, or even close really. my guess is about 60ish degrees max on the outside face.

Can someone host some pics for me and I'll show you my go at something similar ?

Email me [email protected] and I'll send them to you !

upload them in your post, like i did. easy. just make sure the file size is reasonable. nothing massive.

Edited by Munkyb0y

i made a cold air intake snorkel lol fo rmy car and my brothers car, made outta 20 bucks worth of plumping supplies from bunnines, sprayed em black and fitted into place where stock intercooler goes, has a massive funnel thats like the same size as a stock intercooler, that funnels down into a 2.5 inch pipe that then curves up and stops right underneither my pod,

all i need now is the sheilding around the pod and im done :D

Hey Bryn, got any pics of it ? I would love to see it, because im sure im gonna' be pretty bored this Saturday and need something to do!

I also wanna' know if anyone would goto the trouble of making me a prespex box :D.. clear!

PM me or post here ;)

MRXTCZ

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Bryn, got any pics of it ? I would love to see it, because im sure im gonna' be pretty bored this Saturday and need something to do!

I also wanna' know if anyone would goto the trouble of making me a prespex box :banana: .. clear!

PM me or post here :P

MRXTCZ

youd be better off to have a non-seethru airbox imo, if youv got a pod in it. that way police wont think your car is as modded as it may be. sleeper styles the best :( as stock looking as possible is deff the way imo, for a street car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...