Jump to content
SAU Community

Halfshaft Popped Out Of Diff, Anyone Had This Happen Before?

bubba
 Share

Recommended Posts

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

So I leave work yesterday and a few streets away I notice something strange.. car starts pulling to the left when I back off and pulling to the right when I accelerate. I was like hmm, that's dodgy.

Come to a set of lights and when I go to take off it just sits there spinning the passenger side wheel :cool:

Limped it to my mates workshop and threw it up on the hoist to discover the drivers side halfshaft has popped out of the diff..

Has anyone had this happen before? it was probably a good inch or so out of the diff :laugh:

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Circlip was still there, there was no noise associated with it immediately before or after it came out.

I'm putting it down to the occaisional axle tramp I get (mainly when trying to take off in the wet without heaps of wheelspin) slowly working it out.

At least nothing was broken.. thought I'd snapped an axle for a little while there :(

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

thats wierd, we don't run the circlip at all in the race cars and always have trouble remving them (need to remove the lower control arm from the hub to pull it out). you did well. I guess its an abovious question but are all your suspension links ok? and where they mount to the subframe or chasis? wheel has to move a fair way to get the half shaft out. or maybe some issue with the cv joint?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Suspension links are all fine but there was enough axial movement in the axle to install the diff centre easily..

Is there any form of locater on the outer end? (in the hub) It did seem odd that the whole axle could slide outwards a good inch or so...

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

hmmmm

never have seen hat.

as duncan said it sounds like you might have a lot of subframe movement.

I also don't run circlips in my diff as i lost them :D and i have never had a problem with it.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

when you say enough axial movement to install the diff......does the axle move relative to the hub? more than a mm or 2 is too much and suggests you might not have a nut on the axle lol that would do it.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well thats the answer I was looking for, I'll have to have a look on the hub side and make sure there is a nut there lol.

Another conclusion I have come to is that it may be due to the diff flanges that came with my Nismo diff.. stockers were one long and one short.. new ones that came with the diff were the same length..

Meh, 2way has been in for about 6 months now, if it pops out again anytime soon I'll start looking at it more closely.. I'm just happy I didn't snap an axle :blush:

Also I'm pretty sure I don't have subframe movement as I think I would have noticed the back end doing funny things (like when my HICAS was fubar'd.. that was quite noticable!) but it's rather stable and predictable so I don't think there's anything amiss there.

Edited by bubba
  • 1 month later...
lilmissr32 Enthusiast

lilmissr32

Posted
Posted

I had this problem - popped the r/h half shaft out and snapped both cv shafts in half all at once. Attempted to get the half back in whilst diff was still in the car but it just wouldn't go! Removed the l/h half shaft (which was extremely tight and difficult to remove) and diff out of the car, put it on its side and tried to get the shafts back in but still to no avail - the l/h shaft wouldn't go back in either. Had a squiz at both the shafts and they didn't 'appear' to be twisted. Got 2 new cv shafts and the wreckers sent me 2 half's as well so we tried them and they slipped straight in without any effort at all, just a light little tap or two. The c'clip on the r/h shaft was located inside the diff and the l/h clip was on the shaft for the record. So, my problem with this was that I had actually twisted both the half shafts and that's why they wouldn't go back in. My solution to this problem is to get a complete GTR rear cradle and bolt it in!! Or, spend big bucks and get custom shafts and stubs made... :banana:

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you find the reason for the half shaft poping out???

I have the same problem.

Suspension seams all good, cant really use the car as its loosing alot of oil...

Mine was a lot further out than that! but no, still no idea why it happened and it's been fince since :)

lilmiss.. that's pretty fullon.. what sort of diff?

lilmissr32 Enthusiast

lilmissr32

Posted
Posted

It's got a Kaaz 2-way. So, team that with a twin-plate, RB25DET 'box with PAR gearset (1st - 4th gears), big 1-piece tailshaft with biggest uni's I could fit and 500-odd rwhp and you have major problems with standard shafts and cv's as there is no 'give' in the rest of the driveline. My r/h half shaft was longer than my l/h too...

I broke 2 x cv shafts @ Jamboree on MT street radials on the launch, put spare ones in, went out again with the street tyres on this time (18's) and snapped 2 more plus twisted the half shafts in 2nd gear (not even on the launch). Damn frustrating to say the least, didn't get to run my 10! I have to take it easy in it 'til the GTR cradle goes in and even then we're not sure how long the shafts are guna last with street tyres, let alone slicks! All fun and games...

lilmissr32 Enthusiast

lilmissr32

Posted
Posted

yup.... considering that's the turbo I've got! And, assuming you're guna get similiar power plus similiar clutch/gearbox/tailshaft set-up to mine! Have fun with it!! Lol!

Brockas Proficient

Brockas

Posted
Posted

Had this happen after busting a launch in the GT-R.

Remove and refit the circlip inside with a new circlip from Nissan. Fixed the problem in the GTR. Done 2 rallys on it since and now it's fine.

This also caused an ATTESSA error, as the speed sensor no longer works when the driveshaft pops out.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Flash89 Mentor

Flash89

Posted
Posted

i had this happen to be today, test drove the car with the 26 in, in a school zone 40ks and all of a sudden no more drive. thought broke the diff, but shaft popped out, i thought the reason being is that the rear alignment was out cause just fitted a lock bar on. so has it popped out since yous put it back in???

poobah Enthusiast

poobah

Posted
Posted (edited)

i had this happen to me a few times while driving along the freeway, with my right shaft coming right out of the diff,i had to jack the car up and hammer the shaft back in on the side of the road.

its was a nismo 2way and the problem was with the shaft being the wrong size. i ended up randomly trying to fit the proper shafts in, and found that it was 2 of the shorter shafts. and it worked fine.

hope that makes sense.

Edited by poobah

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Also build this EH ute with 370z motor and gearbox with a couple of turbos just for fun.  
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just stack 2 pieces of 200x50 timber on top of each other. Total length about 900mm, with the top one being a little shorter and both having a 45° angle cut on them to make the front edge a bit of a ramp. Put these in front of each front wheel, drive up on them, throw the trolley jack under. Takes 1 minute. Scissor jacks can eat a bowl of dicks. I never use on under my car unless desperate.
×
×
  • Create New...