Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was planning on MAYBE buying an r33 rb26 engine but because its from QLD i was gonna just get him to send it down here via courier. If i do get it and it gets sent down here, how do i know that ill be loking at an r33 engine instead of an r32? are there engine numbers or something that i should be looking out for? thanks for the help!

-the knock sensor loom has a different plug. (just pull the one off the 32 motor and bolt it on the 33 donk)

-the heater hoses at the rear are larger on the 33 than the 32 (I just made a step down inline brass reducer)

-Also Use your R32 GTR dash water temp sensor in the 33 motor. ( the 33 sensor didnt register anything on the dash)

pulled from a similar thread.

or get the engine number and post it in the NISSAN FAST thread, ask nicely and someone will look it up for you.

r33 has a small canister on one of the metal fuel lines running under the front of the plenum, i think it's the return.

r32 fuel rail has two tabs / tangs on the rear for mounting the lower section of the loom plugs, r33 has one front and one rear.

only R34 has red cam covers.

well, i think the GTR is gonna be up for sale soon...for one petrol is a killer! and 2 i just wanna get out of the performance scene (streetwise anyway) :D

so its just an idea at the moment and probably wont go through with it, but the girlfriend said that i should maybe build some type of track car - at least it'll keep me (very) busy on the weekends as im a useless sh*te wen it comes to working on cars...haha...

so i was thinking of MAYBE putting in a R33 engine into my R32 and sell it off as a standard GTR kos i wont get much more for it with a worked engine...

ive spent all this money on the engine and neva got to see its full potential so with the track car idea i can at least drop the engine into another car and see wat it can do....

BUT there is the financial side of things.... :D

Edited by stunnd

My theory is, plan for the fact that petrol is not going to go down, if it does, bonus, but it will keep going up. We are pretty lucky to have had it so cheap for so long (look at how much the UK has been paying for it for a long time...).

Satan is whispering in my ear "how much will you sell your GTR for...?"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...