Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there just wondering will the ignitor suitable for r32gtr? does it come with the loom? and wheres the item locate. cheers

I bent my r32gtst yesterday so i am parting out the salvageable bits of the shell and misc bits and pieces of trims and panels. I also have a few aftermarket bits and pieces and the rb25det and box.

The aftermarket parts listed are all i am offering on that front but obviously i am not listing all of the available stock parts from the wreck so please ask if it's not listed.

If you are interested in something but need more details please pm or post as i am keeping this ad brief due to the number of parts.

I'm negotiable on prices to a certain extent but low ball offers will be ignored.

Almost all parts are still on the car. I would prefer to sell the engine before removing the pfc, coils and looms so that prospective buyers can see it run before removal from the car. After that goes it can be a free for all. I will remove listed parts from sale if i find that they are damaged when i start dismantling. I have not listed any parts that i know are damaged (like radiator, intercooler, z32 afm or power steering pump)

r33 S1 RB25DET long motor with extras inc HKS 256/264 cams and adjustable exhaust cam gear. No turbo, coils or injectors on engine but a rail and 6 stock injectors will be provided separately $2000. Includes all sensors but no looms or alternator/power steering pump/AC compressor.

6x550 side feed blitz injectors in rb25 rail $500

r33 rb25det Power fc inc hand controller $1000

r33 S1 RB25DET gearbox with custom 1 piece tail shaft suit r32, modified GTR speedo drive, slave cylinder and modded cross member $1850

rb25 det engine loom modded to suit late r32gtst manual. Minor changes will be needed to suit stock afm (4 wires) and o2 sensor(3 wires). currently wired to suit z32AFM $250

GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200

GTR front drivers side indicator $100

GTSt indicators, pair $150

GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300

rb25 ignitor $125

rb20/25 CAS $100

And the after market bits

Trust remote mount oil cooler $500

Xtreme XHD 9 puck clutch kit $500

Cusco comp coilovers damperand height adjustable front and rear 8/6 $850

Cusco master cylinder brace suit 32gtst/gtr $90

Whiteline 24mm front sway bar $180

rb20/26/s1rb25 splitfires $400

Trust type R bov $200

Just jap B pillar brace $100

Cusco castor rods $150

Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250

Just Jap adjustable front upper control arms $250

Stock front upper arms with nolathane adjustable bushes $150

2 Davies craig 14inch thermos $100 ea. I'll throw in the controller if you buy both.

I can probably pull together the parts for a 32gtst manual conversion (minus box, clutch and flywheel) for $150 or so. Master and slave less than 3 years old.

I have the full interior in reasonable condition except the drivers seat and the carpets a bit rooted.

misc bits and pieces like rb20 and 25 alternators (1 each) rb20 and 25 AC compressors (1 each) rb25 starter motor, various AC lines, full boot trim, etc etc

Most panels rear of the A pillar are ok, though the passenger side door would need repairs to the leading edge.

Thats about all i can think of.

Front brakes, diff, rear arms, rear brakes and rear swaybar are not for sale.

cheers

Dave

  • Replies 144
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
hey mate

noticed the pic of the semi slicks, if you still have them what size and how much?

thanx dave

from dave

Nah, they are gone.

I do have some r888's in 235/45-17 in similar condition that i'll be getting rid of shortly. 1 or 2 days life left in them at best.

  • 4 weeks later...

The shell and most parts are gone.

Off the top of my head all thats left are the tail lights, a starter motor, a couple of ignitors and an alternator

  • 4 weeks later...

Lower control arm, i have a 33gtst RHS one, plus stock rears

Castor Rod, nope

Swaybar mount, nope

Tie Rod, nope

Castor Rod Brackets Pair, nope

  • 2 weeks later...

hi...

like t grab this items

just jap b pillar

xtreme clutch

matlech braided brakelines (will this suit HCR32 with ecr33 brakes caliper?)

can use your HKS cams to fit my rb25det sereis 2?

if someone getting the rb head, i would like to get the bottom.

can you ship to port moreby papua new guinea, will pay for the freight.

The shell and most parts are gone.

Off the top of my head all thats left are the tail lights, a starter motor, a couple of ignitors and an alternator

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...