Car Friendly Turbo Leak, That's Right... Stupidest Shit Ever Come See!

[AKW]

Yeah, so I am wanting to actually MAKE a f**king turbo leak on my RB25DET 2nd edition. I would like to get it tuned but I am short about... IDK, 50$ or so and it is overfueling reading the air mixture, SO I need to find a good, and healthy way, if possible at all, to make a boost leak in my car.

This will likely be the ONLY topic on how to create a boost leak and not cure one, lol.

Or maybe you have another suggestion, and oh, as I mentioned, I KNOW I need it tuned, but I am short some cash, so don't go shooting that out your ass, I already know it.

Edited July 26, 2008 by AKW

[rob82]

Yeah, so I am wanting to actually MAKE a f**king turbo leak on my RB25DET 2nd edition. I would like to get it tuned but I am short about... IDK, 50$ or so and it is overfueling reading the air mixture, SO I need to find a good, and healthy way, if possible at all, to make a boost leak in my car.

This will likely be the ONLY topic on how to create a boost leak and not cure one, lol.

Or maybe you have another suggestion, and oh, as I mentioned, I KNOW I need it tuned, but I am short some cash, so don't go shooting that out your ass, I already know it.

Your an idiot - making a boost leak will only compound the problem. You must have been the load your mother was meant to swallow!

[AKW]

LOL I need something man. When I took the damn turbo gasket off the car and had it running with the turbo half off the car the car runs fine, otherwise it runs rich. And even though that's not your call, I really wish I hadn't been born. But seeing as how I have, maybe we could look into this for a temporary fix instead of calling out hasteful lines.

Besides, if I am an idiot who spelled you are as "your"?

Let's not make this a flame topic, but more along the lines of a suggestion one.

Edited July 26, 2008 by AKW

[The Dan]

If you know people are going to shoot you down, why post that shit up?

That is the most stupid thing I have ever heard, like Rob said, it'll just make it overfuel more. It will also cause issues as you will lose boost. $50 is fuck all, save up and get it done properly. People are on here to help you out but only if you use some common sense.

[The Dan]

Let's not make this a flame topic, but more along the lines of a suggestion one.

Suggestion: Get it tuned

What ECU have you got?

[tridentt150v]

Use a drill and a drill bit.......hehehehahahaha

[Guilt-Toy]

hahahhahahaa

+1 for the stupidist post on SAU.

The boost leak will make it richer lol

[Gts-t]

this really is the stupidest shit ever

lul

[paulr33]

stop using a narrowband 02 sensor for a reference of fuel economy indication

the sensor is slow and narrow and youll go between rich and lean non-stop ie: useless readout

learn to drive like a normal person, it only comes on boost when you load the engine up, so if you dont floor it, guess what, no boost

reasonable economy = 350kms to a tank

poor economy = 250kms to a tank

if you are getting poor then replace your 02 sensor, its a $100 part from any auto shop (EL Falcon 02 sensor is the same)

and most places can fit it for about $80 its on the dump pipe, with the right ratchet attachment (like spark plug dongle) you can do it yourself

once fitted, reset the stock ecu and youll be fine

[AKW]

Thanks a ton Paul, and yes, I realize this is a stupid post, but it got your attention did it not?

Also, I got the O2 sensor replacement and I replaced it about 400 kilometers ago MAX.

What is the stuff about a Narrowband though? And slow? I am somewhat confused on this statement. Yeah, I HAVE to stay out of boost, but that means not getting above 3k RPM unless I get it above 4k in 1st and 2nd gear and keep it above it, otherwise or at half throttle, it will overfuel. Does that make sense?

AND I have ran into a problem with my SAFC II. I was finally going to connect it today and got all connections made until I got to the Air Flow Meter connections. In the book the pin placement says one thing and then on the ECU pins there is no pin where it says it would be in the SAFC II manual. That's confusing......... Anyone have that problem? Or maybe have a wiring diagram for the ECU that isn't japanese?

Edited July 27, 2008 by AKW

[SECURITY]

buy a corolla

[paulr33]

What is the stuff about a Narrowband though? And slow? I am somewhat confused on this statement. Yeah, I HAVE to stay out of boost, but that means not getting above 3k RPM unless I get it above 4k in 1st and 2nd gear and keep it above it, otherwise or at half throttle, it will overfuel. Does that make sense?

most people buy an air/fuel gauge and plug it into their standard 02 sensor

the standard 02 sensor is only useful to the ECU as its provides some feedback for fuel economy operation, its called "closed loop"

the ECU reads the 02 sensor and trims fuel mappings in real time, in the effort to give you economy on light cruise at say 100kmh in 5th gear

its not used when your floor it or load the engine up on boost or when you vary the throttle constantly. closed loop needs a consistent light cruise for it to work and run properly.

so most poeple fit an air fuel guage and watch the lights go spastics (they do cos its a narrow/slow sensor) and believe they are wasting fuel.

the standard ecu is quiet good and giving reasonable fuel economy. you should under normal conditions be able to get 400kms to a tank with the stock ecu.

if you floor it, the car is gonna load up, its going to come on boost and its going to use more fuel than if you light cruise

when driving, just drive it like a normal car, there's no need to make it more complicated than than

a lot of people act like retards when they first get their turbo car thinking they MUST be on boost all the time

or must change before 2500rpm etc etc (similar to how you are now)....

if you take off and drive normal (not full throttle) and change around 3 grand youll will have fine fuel economy

boost or not boost, your economy will be fine - end of story. if you mash the throttle hard it will use more fuel (like any car)

AND I have ran into a problem with my SAFC II. I was finally going to connect it today and got all connections made until I got to the Air Flow Meter connections. In the book the pin placement says one thing and then on the ECU pins there is no pin where it says it would be in the SAFC II manual. That's confusing......... Anyone have that problem? Or maybe have a wiring diagram for the ECU that isn't japanese?

id say you are looking at the ECU pinout wrong or the wrong ECU pin out for your car - make sure its the right diagram and its rotated correctly

use the pin map layouts to work out which way to look at the ECU from memory its something like 10 8 8 8 (in the number of pins per block)

use that to work out which way the diagram is looking at the ECU. if you splice the wrong wire, you risk blowing stuff up

[GTAAAH]

make a small cut in your fuel line and run it into your oil catch can? heh

[nizmo_freek]

WTF!!!!!!!!!

[TTT]

what you need is a blow off valve.

one that has multiple trumpets....and mate.. you need it by tonight.

[AKW]

Okay, no, this isn't about fuel economy entirely although I do get poor fuel economy. When I say overfueling I mean that it is almost stopping due to it. I can drive normal, and I normally do. I only get around 250-300km to a tank. That's terrible. But it is driving like you said, around 2500 3000rpm then change a gear and coast on 80 (50 mph) most all the time if I am going "faster". 97% of the time I am doing this. But even to pass a car I have to drop the car down to second and floor it to get over the 3-4k range. Then I can go in the other gears at those RPMs. If I am in third though, for example, and I build boost at 3k RPM the car will actually bog down, shoot black smoke pretty hard core because I can see it in my mirror, and I will slow down to nothing. I had to actually take the recirc pipe off because if the turbo spools up at all the car will just smoke like hell (black smoke), bog down, and just about stop. It is like the pedal is a soft, but bumpy, break at 3k or boost. But anything that is above 4k is fine but only at 90% to full throttle. I can turbo in 1st and 2nd gear up to 3k flatspot 4k and then since it is jumping up the rev. range so fast it just carries right through it. In the other gears it has to pull through it and it just bogs down and f**king stops. It is really quite annoying and I don't know what is going on. Also, the car has mods. It has a Front Mount Intercooler, Decat, 3" Super Dragger Exaust, and HKS Super Induction Intake. I think it is just sensing a lot more air that is making it in the car but it is going into the pipes for the front mount?

EDIT:

I replaced all of the sensors with top notch and quality shit. It couldn't have been more than 500km ago. I even replaced the MAF thinking it could have been that but it did no good. It all started doing this when I put the T3 gasket on the car. The gasket when I bought it was only HALF THERE. The guy who had it before me tried to do some goup gasket bullshit as well but it obviously didn't work (duh). So when I did that it began overfueling and acting up..... and that, my friends, is why I made the topic name just this. Because I had a user friendly turbo leak.

I am looking at the Apex book for the SAFC II installation on an RB25DET 93.8-95.12. The book has been right up until I get to the air meter where I make the cut instead of the splice for this cable. The book shows the pin for the air meter 7 over from the middle to the right in the top colom. I have found that there is NO pin there. That makes no sense and yes, I am looking at the right diagram the right way, could there be a missprint? I am really confused. Maybe someone else has an SAFC II

most people buy an air/fuel gauge and plug it into their standard 02 sensor

the standard 02 sensor is only useful to the ECU as its provides some feedback for fuel economy operation, its called "closed loop"

the ECU reads the 02 sensor and trims fuel mappings in real time, in the effort to give you economy on light cruise at say 100kmh in 5th gear

its not used when your floor it or load the engine up on boost or when you vary the throttle constantly. closed loop needs a consistent light cruise for it to work and run properly.

so most poeple fit an air fuel guage and watch the lights go spastics (they do cos its a narrow/slow sensor) and believe they are wasting fuel.

the standard ecu is quiet good and giving reasonable fuel economy. you should under normal conditions be able to get 400kms to a tank with the stock ecu.

if you floor it, the car is gonna load up, its going to come on boost and its going to use more fuel than if you light cruise

when driving, just drive it like a normal car, there's no need to make it more complicated than than

a lot of people act like retards when they first get their turbo car thinking they MUST be on boost all the time

or must change before 2500rpm etc etc (similar to how you are now)....

if you take off and drive normal (not full throttle) and change around 3 grand youll will have fine fuel economy

boost or not boost, your economy will be fine - end of story. if you mash the throttle hard it will use more fuel (like any car)

id say you are looking at the ECU pinout wrong or the wrong ECU pin out for your car - make sure its the right diagram and its rotated correctly

use the pin map layouts to work out which way to look at the ECU from memory its something like 10 8 8 8 (in the number of pins per block)

use that to work out which way the diagram is looking at the ECU. if you splice the wrong wire, you risk blowing stuff up

Edited July 27, 2008 by AKW

[tridentt150v]

"when I bought it was only HALF THERE" ????? not sure what this means, I don't understand how you could install half a gasket.

If the over fueling is as bad as you say, I'd be questioning other things that you might have done in the install, or an ecu fault etc, I wouldn't be sure that a 'tune' could fix it.

[AKW]

That's what I mean man, the gasket was only half present. The gasket was HALF there. It didn't have but half of the gasket on there. The gasket was only partially on it. It was missing half of the gasket.

My install, I assure you, has nothing to do with it. But an ECU fault my be a good guess.

XXXX

Edited July 27, 2008 by AKW

[BHDave]

You're right, this is the stupidist shit ever.

You don't actually want a boost leak, you want an exhaust leak pre turbo to stop it spooling.

Or you want a hole between the afm and the turbo inlet so it thinks it's getting less air.

I have a trust type R bov with optional massive trumpet for sale atm too

Those are my 3 dodgy solutions in line with the thread so far.

The mods you have so far will put you well into the rich and retarded range of mapping on the stock ecu. The safc will probably fix the problem if you don't intend to modify any further.

You may also have misfiring issues associated with either old plugs, incorrectly gapped plugs or shagged coils. The sudden lack of power and clouds of black smoke out the back point towards this (that is, you're dumping a heap of unburned fuel out the exhaust because it isn't firing)

As the car drives fine on cruise and you have replaced the sensors i'd say your economy issues may be a result ot the way you drive.

Your issue is not unlike a lot of other peoples on the forum, It's just that the existing exhaust leak was effectively masking it and keeping you below the R&R threshold. You've fixed that problem and introduced the regular old problems

Edited July 27, 2008 by BHDave

[TTT]

Is this still for sale?