Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings,

After recently purchasing a short shifter for my R33 GTR off ebay, I'd strongly advise not to waste your money.

I thought to myself how hard could it be to make a copy of a short shifter thats not lacking in quality compared to a legit brand. Apparently Hard.

I purchased it off "nottieboy" in a auction like the following:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SHORT-SHIFTER-NISSA...1QQcmdZViewItem

I stated to the buyer the application I required it for (R33 GTR). The actual shiftr I received didn't 100% match the picture on the auction. The shifter didn't fit properly, and even after modifying the bottom bush to fit, it was a rather loose fit, it did not fit my standard gear knob, and although the whole point of the product is to make the actual shift smaller (Which it did) the actual stick was that long (high) it was like driving a bus. Also the instructions that came with it were completely wrong and luckily had a link to the DIY section on here for fitting a C's short shifter.

I seeked assistance of the seller "nottieboy" and he consistantly palmed it off saying that I didnt know what I was doing and that it was my problem, and referred me to other buyers of his to get assistance.

Anyways just a heads up for other prospective buyers.

Ciao.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230162-ebay-short-shifter-dont-buy-these/
Share on other sites

no doubt this ebay shifter is crap as stated. most ebay knock-offs are.

but i have a question. is a short shifter supposed to be shorter in the shaft height? or is it's only purpose to shorten the throw between gears? or both?

well I thought that the gearbox is not changing the gear stick is so unless I'm missing something I assumed that it would just be shorter, please someone enlighten me.

There arn't any new moving parts added with the replacement stick so I don't see how it would change the throw without just being shorter.

i was under the impression that by using a specific bend in the lower part of the shaft, the throw is shortened.

but i dont know, thats why i asked.

if it doesnt shorten the throw, then whats the point !!!! :sick:

short shifter is supposed to shorten the throw distance between gears by changing the pivot point i think so you could have the height of the shifter the same as the stock as was my case but the throw is substantially shorter. i guess i was lucky when i got my C's copy. the copy shifters also transfer more noise to the cabin cause theyre solid and not insulated.

im so glad i didnt buy 1, i was looking at them for ages and then decided to go with a nismo one from japan, i thought at least nismo will do it right, and the nismo 1's even come with the proper boot to stop oil getting out, and at $200 delivered, and knowing it will be a good product i would happily buy another 1,

JV

i bought one, and went through EVERYTHING you did, exactly same buyer, referred to other buyers about the product, doesnt fit, bush is too small (r32 gtr), lots of loose play, and last week... the bottom fell out, and im sure i tighted it right, thats why i bought a tomei short shifter, ebay = fail

Another ebay thread... and again i have to ask.. honestly, what did you expect for $40?

Something that was perfect and working?

Come on guys, be realistic. $40 isnt going to buy you anything more than a headache when a known branded one retails for what, $250?

Until people stop trying to cut corners and save $200 here, $150 there, these kinds of things will forever continue to happen.

I cant even think of the last time i had an issue with a part... but then, i dont shop on ebay buying imitation parts

Greetings,

After recently purchasing a short shifter for my R33 GTR off ebay, I'd strongly advise not to waste your money.

I thought to myself how hard could it be to make a copy of a short shifter thats not lacking in quality compared to a legit brand. Apparently Hard.

I purchased it off "nottieboy" in a auction like the following:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SHORT-SHIFTER-NISSA...1QQcmdZViewItem

I stated to the buyer the application I required it for (R33 GTR). The actual shiftr I received didn't 100% match the picture on the auction. The shifter didn't fit properly, and even after modifying the bottom bush to fit, it was a rather loose fit, it did not fit my standard gear knob, and although the whole point of the product is to make the actual shift smaller (Which it did) the actual stick was that long (high) it was like driving a bus. Also the instructions that came with it were completely wrong and luckily had a link to the DIY section on here for fitting a C's short shifter.

I seeked assistance of the seller "nottieboy" and he consistantly palmed it off saying that I didnt know what I was doing and that it was my problem, and referred me to other buyers of his to get assistance.

Anyways just a heads up for other prospective buyers.

Ciao.

The same goes for the rest of ebay stuff. On ebay buy only real brand items. No-name knock-offs either wont work or can even cause damage to your car.

In regards to the copy shifters being solid and transmitting noise into the cabin. Even a genuine C's shifter is solid and transmits noise.

Ebay is fine if you only buy known brands from reputable sellers. I got a TiAl gate and 044 pump off ebay, haven't run the gate yet but it's definately a legit TiAl item and the 044 has been in my car for over 6 months with no problems.

i bought one.. for my 32gtst.. works fine.. no installation hassles.. shifts fine.. was a bit noisy.. but made a rubber gasket so to speak.. im not sure who i got it off on ebay.. and it was alot more expensive.. but definately wasnt a known brand item. i love it, and so does everybody else who drives my car.

Had the exact same thing with nottieboy, also palmed me off i reported him to ebay as they are not For gtrs and he is a tard. They are only meant for rb20s silivais, the smaller boxes as these have the smaller bush and are a tad longer,

im a gearbox builder of 6 years and he told me i had no idea to ,

lol hes just another scammer, that doesnt actually know what his products fit,

Had the exact same thing with nottieboy, also palmed me off i reported him to ebay as they are not For gtrs and he is a tard. They are only meant for rb20s silivais, the smaller boxes as these have the smaller bush and are a tad longer,

im a gearbox builder of 6 years and he told me i had no idea to ,

lol hes just another scammer, that doesnt actually know what his products fit,

bingo! it cannot suit all of the applications he has stated. From some of the above posts it seems it is an rb20/sr20 box style shifter which is not compatible with rb25 and 26 boxes

he is a scammer. report him to ebay and hopefully if there are enough reports he gets proper f**ked.

alot of ebayers send the wrong gear to suit the correct application.

quite some time ago i got one to suit my 33 GTS-T, they sent me one for an S13. i then returned it (my own money), got in contact with them and they sent me out one for a civic!. once again contacted the seller, they asked me to return it as i did the S13 shifter. i let him know i was i need of it in a hurry so they would send it to me before the got there civic shifter returned to them.

in the end i got what i was after, and i held onto the civic shifter as i did not recieve a refund on the return postage of the S13 shifter.

the design of the shifter was a copy of the nismo shifter, the construction of the shifter seemed sturdy but only use of it will determine how good the quality is especially the bushes etc....

Another ebay thread... and again i have to ask.. honestly, what did you expect for $40?

Something that was perfect and working?

Come on guys, be realistic. $40 isnt going to buy you anything more than a headache when a known branded one retails for what, $250?

Until people stop trying to cut corners and save $200 here, $150 there, these kinds of things will forever continue to happen.

I cant even think of the last time i had an issue with a part... but then, i dont shop on ebay buying imitation parts

Unfortunately it was more than $40! Im not one to buy cheap shit, but I thought a shifter would be a hard thing to f**k up, but as the posts above say, I guess its not suited to a GTR as some people have no problems with the cheap ones.

I rkn just the fact you shop on ebay for parts for your GTR is pretty bad itself.

You should be ashamed putting ebay parts in your GTR...unless they are genuine japshit as previously stated...!

If items are less than half price theres usually a good reason :down: but cheers for warning us fellow SAUers.

I rkn just the fact you shop on ebay for parts for your GTR is pretty bad itself.

You should be ashamed putting ebay parts in your GTR...unless they are genuine japshit as previously stated...!

If items are less than half price theres usually a good reason :cool: but cheers for warning us fellow SAUers.

As I said, I don't usually settle for cheap shit but I wouldn't have thought it would be hard to f**k up. I don't think the item should have ever been sold to suit a GTR. Either way the guys a flamin mongrel, don't buy off him :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...