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Guys I have a VG30DET roller bearing turbo on my motor with a Microtech and sard trigger boost controller holding 13psi, dropping off to 10.5 psi at the top of the rev range - I have maxed out at 183.1 rwkw (248rwhp), you guys should be getting heaps more power from the 2530. I am about to add a T3G garrett the Oz equivalent of the 2530 and expect 230rwkw.

I have a dyno graph if any one wants to see it

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bbenny, i have had some dealings with Quick Fit in Hornsby 9476 2877... i have to say all my dealings were pleasant.

Considering the amount of ECU work they do (aftermarket, engine transplants, wiring using std looms etc etc.... they are the NSW Autronic dealer) then id be surprised f they cant do something for you.

I'm getting my PowerFC from Greenline. They always seem to have them so they either don't sell many or they have a heap of them.

Here's the quote from the Email:

APEXi Power FC RB20DET: 95,403 yen

Shipping: 2,500 yen

TOTAL: 97,903 yen AU$1271

From our experience in Australia, the import system works as follows:

Cost of products + 15% (maximum) import duties + cost of shipping + 10% GST.

Note that for some parts such as engine management, there is 0% duties and 3% for turbos.

So all up that is $1398.

bbenny - Removing the boost cut, or more correctly speaking air flow cut, is not a good idea. This cut is put in place to protect the motor. The cut happens when your AFM reaches a certain voltage.. Getting rid of this cut puts a voltage clamp on the ecu eg 4.5 V... When your car flows more air than this voltage clamp the ECU literaly has no idea how much air it is getting and can only be mapped by RPM, or putting it simply guessing. The only accurate method of mapping above this 'boost' cut is to swap for an AFM that reads a lower voltage at the same flow, Z32 for example. A Z32 AFM will read up to 300 rwkw ish quite easily. I have tried mapping using this simple boost cut method and it can easily result in detonation in light to medium throttle applications and very cold weather.

Feel free to call anytime if youd like to discuss some options?? 0411 878 961

Doc.

Yeah but you have to remember, by tricking the ECU that it is getting a lower level of air going in will cause the ECU to advance the ignition timing and lots of boost and advanced timing will cause detonation. and if i can get 300rwhp i dont want that!

thats why im considering the option of either remapped ECU with Z32 or PFC with Z32 i would love to go the PCF but its all beggining to get a bit expensive now...

As for the SAFC i think its great for minor adjustments or with the std turbo, but i just want to make sure everything is working together as best as possible... but that means $$$$ :)

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    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
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    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
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