Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I've been doing some research on these elusive creatures, and I'm figuring the collective wisdom of SAU may be able to unearth more info than I've been able to find on the net.

What I know so far:

45 built, 12 of which were track cars, 33 registered

No ABS, air con, rear wiper, audio, trim in the boot

Unpainted CF bonnet

N1 motor obviously

Does anyone know anything else? Build dates or chassis numbers? What they look like in FAST? If it's posted elsewhere and I can't find it, then please point me there, otherwise, I'm all ears.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230566-r34-gt-r-n1/
Share on other sites

Homologation Special N1 has a hand built motor from Nissan's Race Engine Div'n.

It has a stronger block

Fully balanced bottom end along with forged pistons, new conrods, oil and water pumps

Different Exhaust Manifold

Steel-internal Turbos

Bigger Oil Cooler

Larger Rear brakes

Run-out R34 GT-R Skylines were Nur editions of V-Spec II & M-Spec in February '02 using the N1 engine from the homologation special. All sold on the day of release.

Cheers, T

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230566-r34-gt-r-n1/#findComment-4051940
Share on other sites

Updated info...

- Only came in white

- Unpainted carbon fibre bonnet

- No rear wiper

- No rear fog lamp

- No remote control keys

- No vanity mirrors (oh no!!)

- No stereo or antenna

- Thinner front window glass?? (No UV Cut stuff)

- No courtesy light in the door, just a reflector

- Door mirrors painted black, not body colour

- No electric rear view mirrors

- Centre console lid and handbrake handle different somehow - not leather

- No aircon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230566-r34-gt-r-n1/#findComment-4068573
Share on other sites

Thanks to the (anonymous) champion who emailed me a heap of gear. List price was 6.1 million yen before taxes!! Ouch!

Other interesting info was that there were 45 V Spec N1s built as I mentioned earlier, but also a handful of V Spec II N1s built to order, of which there are suspected to be less than 20 in existence.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230566-r34-gt-r-n1/#findComment-4071274
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...