Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yer i had good think prob steer away from it i want a original one im aware about the endless money pit ownin a gtr can be but its worth it always wanted one my mates got one after drivin that didnt wana go bak in my car lol thanks for the info everyone appreciate it very much the soooner im outa my vl the better lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230755-r32-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4061089
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

This is my first post i stumbled across the forum as I am in the market for an R32 GTR aswell, so this will be my first skyline :P

I have carefully read through all of your suggestions and taken notes, my biggest problem is I am in western nsw and its difficult to find any out here, I am looking into a few trips to Sydney to take a look around, I have found a few import places as per advice on this and other forums.

The main place i am interested in looking at is power play but as i only have a day to play with down there can any one tell me if power play have a hoist which we can stick it up and take a look and will they do a compression test, or is there a few mechanics about there which will allow me to pull in off the street for a check up?

I am also going to check out the toy shop, and also another place which a freind of mine who has recently bought a 180sx from.

He is a mechanic and is going to come with me so somewhere with a hoist which will allow us to get in and take a look too would be nice..

Any Sydney siders some adivce would be great!

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230755-r32-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4113643
Share on other sites

Clicky for pp snake

Just For Your Knowledge, so your informed. Nothing more said

Thanks very much for the heads up this goes against every thing i have heard so far, so i will take this in mind....

Can any body recommend any where else in Sydney then please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230755-r32-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4113832
Share on other sites

^^^^ +1

That all makes sense.

Psychologically, don't tell the owner that you're in the business. And if he's reluctant to let you have it up on a hoist, forget it. Rust is a no-no.

When you take a mechanic who knows his GTRs, you can happily pay attention to 1 list whilst he looks at another. Take a list for each of you.

So many things to do before you turn the key, as indicated above...

Even if CV boots are ok, just do sharp slow turns and circles in both directions and listen for clicking/mild knocking.

Take the car out onto the motorway and do 20secs at several 'constant/steady' speeds to see if the tailshaft is solid or weak.

Finally, try >3 R32 GTRs on the day if you can. You'll know why....

Cheers,

Terry

Hiya, ^^^^ From the above it certainly looks as if you've done your homework well.

That last R32 you've inspected shouldn't be on the road.

It's a "sell for parts only" situation.

Good on ya for rejecting it in the "Diasappointed" Thread

Hope your New Arrival is a great joy to you!

Tez.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230755-r32-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4114014
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...