R32 Gtr

[Julz89]

Ok like i have been sayin for a while im going to get a r32 gtr, now I have moved up in my appreniship I can now afford to get one. I want to get a r32 gtr but is there things to look out for or be care ful of I am aware of RWC items as I do them everyday but is there common faults or something that da average person wont notice as i dont want to get a gtr and find out that this is wrong with it etc. Also between the 89 model to 94 what is the difference??? thanks for ur help guys as soon I will have a gtr in my drive way and no more vl lol.

[cotcho_gtr]

hi bud just a quick question, how much you want to spend?

[Rav]

Planty of GTR's out there on the market at the moment and cheap.

[Julz89]

yes i know there cheap atm, im willin to spend anythin up to 20k if i have to and tryin to find one thats stock also. Im mechanicly minded but want to know like a few things to look at for on them, i found one going for 12500 but its had a new motor but in it and the rest i saw for sale are around the 15-20k mark. thanks for reply btw but yer any info will be appreciated

[kx2fity]

Take some one with you that knows GTRS!!!!!!

Do a compression test and if neccesary a leak down test - let you know what kind of life car has had, just because engine may have had a hard life does not mean its a lemon just factor in cost of rebuild etc!

Look for worn boot gearstick, worn steering wheel, worn gear knob (although these can easily be changed)!

Get it up on a hoist and check for rust, chassis rails, check rear wheel housing arches, check within the boot into rear pods, , suspension rubbers, cv boots and any instances of accident damage!

Check syncros on gearbox 'quick gear changes listening for crunches"- these can be easily fixed but is a costly exercise!

If the engines been rebuilt who did it? Are they a reputable workshop? Go talk to them! Are there receipts for work done?

What aftermarket parts are on the car? Could these be hiding faults/damage etc! Is the boost turned up - boost controllers

Turbos? is there any play in the turbos are they original turbos?

Is it original paint? run some magnets check for bog spots?

Main thing ask yourself can you really afford a GTR? From my experience they are money pits but well worth the $$$ if you can afford, remember to factor in $5000+ a year in general maintenance/licensing/insurance etc!

My advice get a cheap daily and have the Gtr as a weekender!

[GTR-N1]

^^^^ +1

That all makes sense.

Psychologically, don't tell the owner that you're in the business. And if he's reluctant to let you have it up on a hoist, forget it. Rust is a no-no.

When you take a mechanic who knows his GTRs, you can happily pay attention to 1 list whilst he looks at another. Take a list for each of you.

So many things to do before you turn the key, as indicated above...

Even if CV boots are ok, just do sharp slow turns and circles in both directions and listen for clicking/mild knocking.

Take the car out onto the motorway and do 20secs at several 'constant/steady' speeds to see if the tailshaft is solid or weak.

Finally, try >3 R32 GTRs on the day if you can. You'll know why....

Cheers,

Terry

[Duncan1]

Oh and one more minor thing, on carsales you sometimes see people advertise blue suede interior trim..... They are all grey, they just fade out to blue!!! .... Good luck mate, hope you find a good one... buy 92 onwards....

[Julz89]

yer im aware there money pits i keeep the commodore as somethin durin the week and like u sed the skyline as the weekender, but does it really matter if the one im lookin at has had a new motor put in it??? cause it wouldnt make it original correct??? also i know there is a nismo verson N1 version and v spec I and II what are the differences in all of them. I no the N1 has no aircon abs etc but what about the rest of them. sorry if im a pain in the arse but i appreciate the help.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

yer im aware there money pits i keeep the commodore as somethin durin the week and like u sed the skyline as the weekender, but does it really matter if the one im lookin at has had a new motor put in it??? cause it wouldnt make it original correct??? also i know there is a nismo verson N1 version and v spec I and II what are the differences in all of them. I no the N1 has no aircon abs etc but what about the rest of them. sorry if im a pain in the arse but i appreciate the help.

R32 GTR - Standard (22nd May 1989)

R32 GTR Nismo - Standard R32 GTR but with a Body Kit, which was designed to improve the air flow to the intercooler, into the engine and down force. (22nd February 1990)

R32 GTR N1 - N1 Specification Engine = Race Spec (more refined engine). The car had the ABS, A/C, Sound System, Rear Wiper and Boot Carpet were removed and light weight head lights we installed all to save weight. (19th July 1991)

R32 GTR V-Spec (Victory Specification) - Upgraded brakes to Brembos, updated ATTESA E-TS (Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All-Terrain Electronic Torque Split) and factory 17" BBS wheels and 235/45/17 tires. (3rd February 1993)

R32 GTR V-Spec II - Same as V-Spec, only with wider tyres, 245/45/17. (14th February 1994)

Only good thing about the V-Spec's were its Brembo brakes, other thatn that, I read that they weighed more then the standard R32 GTR's.

I would pick the N1 out of all of them due to its engine refinement. Change the colour to Black or Gun Metal Grey (As the N1's only came in a Crystal White colour), add on a Nismo body kit and Nismo LMGT 4 wheels.

[cotcho_gtr]

Mate if your after an r32 gtr in immaculate condition, no rust, accident free, low k's, strong drivetrain,

and awesome paint, serviced every 5k, you are honestly looking at the over 20k mark. really between 20-25k

you will be paying more a balsy one! The last of them, 94 model are worth more cause they were a sought after

and not many of them around with some factory extras. Any gtr owner will agree that you will need to spend over 20k for a

good one. Keep away from the ones you see selling from eg. 13k to 17k.

good luck with the hunt!

[Julz89]

yer i am aware of that thats why im lookin cause ive looked at a few and some of the state that there in its a discrase lol but yer its something im not goin to rush into. also you no how there rated at 206kw someone told me that they were really higer and nissan in japan just said that?? is it true?

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

^^ Japans Gentlemans Agreement between all their car manufacturers.

No car was to exceed over 206 kW.

The car made more power than advertised.

[Cliffo_rb26dett]

i payed 35 for my r32 gtr, if you really want a good 1 you gotta spend the dosh hey.. but you wont regret it at all...

[kx2fity]

Just incase you do decide to go down the cheaper road:

I ended up buying a cheap R32 GTR(first owner in australia/complied/unregistered)

Good Points:

-strong orignal engine

-TEIN coilovers suspension, TEIN progressive springs, TEIN pillow uppers

-BUDDY CLUB RS coilovers

-17" Alloy deep deep dish 255/40/17

-BREMBO R33 GTR front brakes, Braded brake lines, Cross drilled rear rotors

-TOMMY KAIRA 300km/h complete dash

-APEXi N1 cat-back exhaust, HKS front pipe

-BLITZ ACCESS ECU

Bad Points

Had a crappy un-orignal paint that was peeling bad

Rust around window arches/ rear pods/ rear wheel housing arch

Clutch was slipping

However I was very much aware of all the problems and how I would go about fixing and financing to get it back to original condition!

First thing I did 100km service, replaced one of the bushes, put new brake pads on and dynoed it!

Next in went brand new ORC twin plate clutch/ lightened flywheel

Next we stripped car down and found even more rust/bog spots (so ordered a heap of brand new body panels and wheel arches) + new 1 piece nismo kit, new bootlid

Next front and rear windows were broken so had to get new front and rear glass + seals = $$$$$$

The car is soon to be painted back to original gunmetal grey am just waiting on some more panels from Japan!

It has been a long and fairlly costly experience in which there is still a lot to be done and a lot of $$$ to be spent!

Although I brought it cheap it will end up being a $25000+ R32 GTR

"But atleast I will no exactly what Ive got"

[Julz89]

yer but one im lookin at has had another motor put in it and he rekons its got good comp and oil pressure, i no i have to test it out my self but would it be worth it if its had anohter motor in it?>

[kx2fity]

yer but one im lookin at has had another motor put in it and he rekons its got good comp and oil pressure, i no i have to test it out my self but would it be worth it if its had anohter motor in it?>

Has the engine been rebuilt or was it an engine swap? Who put it in receipts? ask these kind of questions!

Have a look at the intake manifold- is the paint chipping off? (Good sign of hard usage and high core temps)

Compression test will set you back $100 - $150 (well worth it)

As an alternative to a costly rebuild a lot of people simply buy half cuts and do engine swaps, it is a cheap way of replacing a damaged engine- However your buying into the unknown!

[Julz89]

yer im gona run all the test and hopefully if he is resonable take it to dads work shop and give it a good look over. what is the real power rating of a r32 gtr cause as (OO)SKYLINE(OO) that dere was a aggreement that no car was ment to be over 206kw, what is the correct power output???

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

yer im gona run all the test and hopefully if he is resonable take it to dads work shop and give it a good look over. what is the real power rating of a r32 gtr cause as (OO)SKYLINE(OO) that dere was a aggreement that no car was ment to be over 206kw, what is the correct power output???

My friend gtrzilla had his R32 GTR dyno'd and hit about 155kW at All 4 Wheels.

His car was stock, down to even a compliance cat in the exhaust.

I think for the R32 GTR, at the Rear Wheels, its around 187 kW.

As you know you lose power through the drivetrain and every dyno is different.

There has been talk about the car being restricted from the factory release.

Apparently the car was restricted by its exhaust system, then there was a electronic boost restricter and the ECU...

I read, the boost restricter was marked in Yellow and if you remove the restricter, it would increase the power out put to 230 kW.

I do not heaverly believe this, as I have no solid evidance to prove this true. The information was only on website.

[changi]

GTR's are expensive to own but the ride is definately worth the expense. I reckon the best way to approach a purchase is to take the car to a recognised shop with a history of GTR servicing/repair knowledge [remember there is some 'quirky' shit in the GTR package] and give it over for a couple of hours for a thorough inspection. this would include a full diagnostic printout of the car's systems. any cost would more than pay for itself because you can take the results back to the seller and have the costs of any repair, as a bargaining tool, to lower the asking price.

very good, original examples of GTRs are going up in price; you can buy a good example in Japan for <$20k and it will cost another $10k to get it here and on the road. so that's the sort of $$ you will need to spend if you want a quality car.

as for the replacement engine; I would not go for it simply because there are plenty of cars with original engines. as with your concerns; most buyers prick their ears and start asking questions when 'engine swap' is mentioned. cars without original engines are not as sought after and should be selling cheaper than originals.

you sound enthusiastic; the GTR is a fantastic car, only thing that will dampen your enthusiasism is pouring endless $$ into the new ride full of surprises.

good luck

[GTR-N1]

Posts #9,14,16,19

Hooray!

BTW Julz, if u r still looking at the one with the engine replacement, check the receipts as stated above & also under the carpet, body & chassis for tell-tale signs of a half cut.