Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R34 GTT which I do a lot of SuperSprints in and the oil temp (off the standard gauge) regularly reaches 130+ degrees - I slow down then!!. I have searched for answers to my questions on these forums but haven't been able to find them, so I am hoping you guys can help me out.

What is a good, reliable (no leaks!) brand of oil cooler to use on my GTT that doesn't cost the earth? I would also like to retain my factory oil temp gauge. Is this possible with an aftermarket oil cooler kit? Remote filter relocation doesn't bother me but I'm not sure whether all the kits have this feature or not?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, as I would like for my engine to survive! Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230878-oil-cooler-advice-for-gtt-needed/
Share on other sites

mine would hit half way on the gauge just driving around after I put the new turbo on

I put the new oil cooler on and it sits around 85 to 90 now

I havent really given it a good floggingyet so i dont know what the oil temp goes up to now

You wont find a Jap brand which leaks.. Unless its been forced too.

Get one with a thermostat which activates and begins oil flow.. will work better for driving around off boost in winter and track days you wont have a problem. This will stop destroying your oil 130degrees is were it begins to break down. Also the thermostat will prevent cooling the oil to much for good engine lube.

I did some research awhile ago and found that the best option was a HKS type S (or R very similar I believe it comes with a oil filter relocator, which is really only needed on a GTR.) or Greddy/trust option. Ranging from $500-700 cheap in comparison to the $400 rip off ones.. a few hundred more $50 in postage nets you a headache free option.

Most other people get a cheapo oil cooler and get earl fittings etc and braided lines which are from what I hear good quality.

This is as much as I know..

Oh im sure you can keep the stock gauge but not sure.. Honestly it does not give the most acurate reading however, in particular flow presure gauge.

Edited by DECIM8
What is a good, reliable (no leaks!) brand of oil cooler to use on my GTT that doesn't cost the earth?

The two apposing attributes :P

If you don't want to mess around, most ppl go the Trust ones. Cooler, remote, oilstat.

If you don't mind plugging a leak or three, use the China ones (they all look the same)

check out B&M & permacool.

theyre made in the US and alot of the drag cars over there use them.

a ex sponsor on ns.com (midnightmods) use to piece to gether a remote oil cooler kit (doesn't use braided lines tho) with inline thermostat and worked a treat without any dramas.

You wont find a Jap brand which leaks.. Unless its been forced too.

Get one with a thermostat which activates and begins oil flow.. will work better for driving around off boost in winter and track days you wont have a problem. This will stop destroying your oil 130degrees is were it begins to break down. Also the thermostat will prevent cooling the oil to much for good engine lube.

I did some research awhile ago and found that the best option was a HKS type S (or R very similar I believe it comes with a oil filter relocator, which is really only needed on a GTR.) or Greddy/trust option. Ranging from $500-700 cheap in comparison to the $400 rip off ones.. a few hundred more $50 in postage nets you a headache free option.

Most other people get a cheapo oil cooler and get earl fittings etc and braided lines which are from what I hear good quality.

This is as much as I know..

Oh im sure you can keep the stock gauge but not sure.. Honestly it does not give the most acurate reading however, in particular flow presure gauge.

THANKYOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR INFO DECIM8 - IT BASICALLY ANSWERS ALL MY QUESTIONS! I WILL LOOK INTO PURCHASING ONE OF THE ABOVEMENTIONED COOLERS. I REALLY DIDN'T WANT TO GO ANYWHERE NEAR THE CHINESE CRAP! ANY IDEAS AS TO WHERE I WOULD BUY A HKS COOLER FROM? Edited by yld34t

Have a look at how frustrated i got when i was chasing oil leaks with my Just Jap kit.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...t-p3955122.html

There kits are only good when you put all the fittings into a lave and machine them down to a flat surface and use copper washers to seal NOT THE SILLY ASS GHEY O RINGS THAT THEY USE THAT LEAK IN 5 MINUTES!!! GRRRRR!!!!!!!

I wanted to burn the car i was that pissed off. even thinking about it now... i should have spent the extra $500 and got a decent kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...