Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ported head matched manifolds

jun guilds stano vavles

stock cams

stock cam gears and springs

baffled sump oil restrictors in the block cam cover plates

jun collar and oil pump

acl race bears mains and big ends

rev rods

cp pistions

1.3mm metal head gaskit

metal inlet manifold gaskits

pfc

stock cooler

stock inj stock fuel pump

stock air flow meters

stock dump pipes

front pipes 3 inch cat 3inch exhuast and cannon

stock turbos

os giken twin plate clutch

eboost 2 set to 13psi

262rwkw!!! 351hp

i was very surprised! can not thank anth enough at turbotechics more responce every were! and better on fuel! :D

thoughts ideas?

inj were 85% maxed

anth said to go inj and a bigger fuel pump next...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231030-gtr-tuned-yesterday/
Share on other sites

not bad for old turbos! but yeah why retain so much stock gear? id be presuming you must have been quite happy with it in stock form, and just wanted a bit more from it.

what is the stock 32gtr gear, fuel system, and turbos good for power wise? The 34's are good for almost 300rwkw with just some basic breathing mods and an fc arent they?

Why are you risking a built motor by using stock turbos?

You obviously like to gamble :D

You need turbos before anything else. Fuel pump/Injectors co-incide with larger turbos. They are more than fine for the stockers... which again i stress... get rid of them

Im getting 212rwk on 9psi and little timing on a conservative run in tune, my turbos are stock size but have steel wheels in them. Built engine to

Other power mods are HKS dumps, apexi front's, 5zigen catback, stock cat, PFC, splitfires, hks duel power and arc induction box. So realyas far as power goes, exhaust, intake and very conservative tune...

Love the response :ermm:

Edited by bnr#@
Im getting 212rwk on 9psi and little timing on a conservative run in tune, my turbos are stock size but have steel wheels in them. Built engine to

Other power mods are HKS dumps, apexi front's, 5zigen catback, stock cat, PFC, splitfires, hks duel power and arc induction box. So realyas far as power goes, exhaust, intake and very conservative tune...

Love the response :ermm:

Your going to love MOAR boost after your run in. whats the plans for boost when done?

Your going to love MOAR boost after your run in. whats the plans for boost when done?

Plan is 16psi, the cam gears are yet to be adjusted to and a good tune to be done, should be fun :thumbsup:

Doing brakes first and a few suspension touch ups though so about a month away

ran out of money for turbos....

i like the responce of the stock turbos just wanted to see how much it made with the power fc and no dumps or cam gears first...

and i have seem to made 10kw more than others with cam gears dumps...and on only 13psi not 15 16psi.....

would be interesting i think with cam gears dumps and say 15psi but i dont wont to push the stock turbos....

ill run it at eastern creek next and see how i go...

would be very happy as it is, if i get a 11?

also what did it cost to put the steel wheels in the stock turbos? will be interesting to see what you make on them!

i think ill go spit fire coils next.... inj and a fuel pump...then decide on turbos or a single and air flows metres and a intercooler and make some big power :thumbsup:

Maybe 10rwkw more/1 less psi is dyno variance more than anything else than a solid difference :thumbsup:

A GTR driven hard (on stock turbos) can do mid 11's, it's been done before. However most likely low 12's for you unless you've had a good few outings before and can launch it right etc etc

Personally i wouldnt steel wheel turbos, with the R34 N1's, -7's, GT-SS being the price they are today... better off to just go down that road IMO rather than fixing up the stockers with steel wheels. And then you'll get a little more peak power (well, about 40rwkw or so) with pretty much the same response too :ermm:

i think i have the take off down patt now around 6000rpm seems to work well :thumbsup:

i was looking at gtss befor but now that it made 260kw is it worth it for 40kw? would be interesting to go in a gtr with them to see....

if i go cam gears would i see 10kw more?

i think i have the take off down patt now around 6000rpm seems to work well :P

i was looking at gtss befor but now that it made 260kw is it worth it for 40kw? would be interesting to go in a gtr with them to see....

if i go cam gears would i see 10kw more?

ye as stated, cam gears is more mid-range repsonse than anything else.

As for 40kw? Your talking more like 70kw with GT-SS/N1/-7 :P

310-330rwkw is around about the end result from most peoples setups over 20psi

i think i have the take off down patt now around 6000rpm seems to work well :D

i was looking at gtss befor but now that it made 260kw is it worth it for 40kw? would be interesting to go in a gtr with them to see....

if i go cam gears would i see 10kw more?

As Nismoid said even more then 40kw though it is also more reliable...

You don't have to worry about the ceramic wheels at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...