Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The best idea is to take it to an auto transmission service place, the trans needs to be flushed, otherwise you will only be removing about 60% of the old fluid, alot of fluid is held in the torque converter. Having the trans flushed removes 95% of the old fluid from the system, including tranny cooler.

I have serviced an auto once, and in the end it cost me just about as much as what it would have done if I had it done by the professionals, and I couldn't get all that old fluid out.

You can sort of flush the system, but not to the extent that the service shops can do, you could proberly get around 80% of the old fluid out with a bit of mucking around. unfortunatly you will end up wasting alot of fresh trans fluid in the process.

The whole auto trans system holds 8.3L when completly empty, but if you plan to do any sort of flush you will need more fluid.

There are a few different ways you can service the trans at home, it's not that difficuilt to do.

1) Is by simply draining the fluid and topping up with new fluid, this will only remove the old fluid in the pan.

2) Is to drain the old fluid out of the trans, top up with fresh fluid, take the car for a 5 - 10 min drive to get the new fluid circulating the whole system, wait till trans cools so you don't get burnt, then drain the fluid out of the pan again. put bung back in and fill with fresh fluid, this should remove around 80% of the old fluid.

3) This service is about the best you can do at home, and requires abit more work. To do this sort of service you will need to buy an auto service kit, it should include a trans filter, and a new trans pan gasket. You will also need a clean place to work, as you don't want any dust to get into the trans, when you remove the bottom plate of the trans and replace the trans filter.

Drain the old trans fluid as above, and refill with fresh fluid, then take the car for a drive to circulate the fluid, wait till trans cools so you don't get burnt, drain fluid again. Remove trans pan, making sure no dust can get into the trans. Change the trans filter. Next remove any trace of the old cork gasket off the pan etc. Clean any sludge off the bottom of the pan with a clean paper towel, clean off any metal filings from the magnets on the bottom of the pan, once clean replace magnets to original position change gasket and put back together, making sure not to over tighten the bolts holding the pan on, or it will leak. Replace pan bung, and fill trans with fresh fluid, check trans fluid levels when warm to make sure they are correct.

hope that helps

Guest RedLineGTR

Question. Basically all the fluid in the auto trans circulates from the pan to the torque converter etc. BUt when u drain it you only get the stuff out of the pan not out of the torque converter..Yes? So basically when u put the new stuff in it will still mix with the old stuff in the torque converter. So the oil will be newer but not as good hence the old oil still in thier that gets mixed with the new stuff. IS that right??

Another way of doing it takes a bit longer and a bit more fluid but does a good job is to remove the auto trans cooler hoses and place the pressure hose in to an old tin to drain the old fluid and put the return line in a container of fresh auto trans fluid to put new fluid in to the system.

Start the engine and let it run until the fluid coming out of the pressure line is a nice red color to make sure all the old fluid is out and top up to the correct level afterward.

This makes sure the pan and torque converter are flushed.

R31man

Thanks guys... Exactly what I wanted to know...

Skyla: Great info again :D

Jetdat: You got me thinking now...

R31man: I was looking at my tranny cooler the other night thinking exactly that... Has anyone successfully performed this?

hippy: I don't think there is a "Magic Auto Fluid" ;) Castrol make a good fluid that is reccomended for Nissans, is fully synthetic, has better temperature handling, and is mega expensive... $65 for 4L !!!! So if we need more than 8 to flush it plus a bit more to spill on the floor thats around $200 worth of fluid. OUCH. Gunna call Nissan next week and get a price on Nissan MATIC D.

Might also see if I can befriend an auto technician nearby ;)

I have done it quite a few times with no problems at all. Works like a charm and is heaps easier, effective and a lot less messy, than removing the pan. You still have to change the filter, gasket etc. at the recommended interval though.

BTW Nissan Matic D isn't real cheap. I use it in my S3 R31. I got stung around $13 a litre from the local Nissan dealership. But that's in Tassie so I'm not sure if there is extra for freight etc. Castrol Transmax Z is exactly the same stuff but a lot cheaper.

R31Man

Originally posted by RedLineGTR

Question. Basically all the fluid in the auto trans circulates from the pan to the torque converter etc. BUt when u drain it you only get the stuff out of the pan not out of the torque converter..Yes? So basically when u put the new stuff in it will still mix with the old stuff in the torque converter. So the oil will be newer but not as good hence the old oil still in thier that gets mixed with the new stuff. IS that right??

yes to all above questions.

Originally posted by RedLineGTR

How many litres does the auto trans take

Fully Drained = 8.3L (is that Right?)

When drained normaly without the toque converter???

As far as I know 8.3L is correct, that pretty much what I can interpret from my japanese owners hand book.

Sorry don't know how many litres is held in the pan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...