Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Having just lost my licence for a long time i wanna come back to a less inconspicuous car thats not going to get me pulled over everywhere i go.

My previous rides are R31 skyline NA, bombed R31 Skyline and im driving a DC2R Integra Type R.

I love the stags and it seems a bit more practical then my integra.

Dont get me wrong i love the integra as it is great on fuel, handles like a slot car and is very very quick.

Basically just asking you stag owners what you like about the stageas and if there are any inherent problems to look out for? I know it wont be a quick as the teggas but i need to slow down anyway.

Thanks guys - PS Integra Type R for sale! lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231360-stagea-convert-me-fellers/
Share on other sites

Buy one!!!

Need I say more?

+1 for that, ive gone from a 13b powered s13 silvia, to a 99 rs four s stagea, and i LOVE it!

Most awesome and practical car ever, even more than i thought it would be or what i would

need it to be. So smooth and enjoyable to drive, and (so far) havent been hassled by the cops.

Also its fun when you're at the lights and every car turning past you is snapping their neck looking

trying to figure out WTF im driving!

If you want more info man checkout the "Stagea Buyers Guide" here that Nick and some others

put together.

Hey guys,

Having just lost my licence for a long time i wanna come back to a less inconspicuous car thats not going to get me pulled over everywhere i go.

My previous rides are R31 skyline NA, bombed R31 Skyline and im driving a DC2R Integra Type R.

I love the stags and it seems a bit more practical then my integra.

Dont get me wrong i love the integra as it is great on fuel, handles like a slot car and is very very quick.

Basically just asking you stag owners what you like about the stageas and if there are any inherent problems to look out for? I know it wont be a quick as the teggas but i need to slow down anyway.

Thanks guys - PS Integra Type R for sale! lol

I just took a look, stock they pull out about 170 or 120 atw. With some mild porting and better breathing they get to about 160-170 atw.

i wouldnt say that that is "very very" quick..but horses for courses i guess.

But yeah stags are great, they got lots of power, and i still can whip boyracers when i wanna and i love being able to cart the amount i can in there.Lotsa room.

My stag might be on the market soon if your interested..miss manual too much ( tiptronic stag) so thinking of getting the autech version but as a manual.

Thanks guys - well im loosing it in a month, possibly for 8-9 months, so i wanna sell my honda asap and if i find the right stagea then ill take it and leave it in the garage till im ready - also i bought a downhill mountain racing bike and it doesnt fit into the tegra (surprise surprise) so if i get serious about it then i can always throw the bike in the back.

Thanks again guys.

Ask yourself one question before buying a Stagea: Can I afford the fuel bills.

They aren't cheap but everything else makes up for it. :P

Neesmo: Do you know what model you're chasing yet? The earlier C34's are coming down in price faster than a freight train coming down a hill with no brakes, cheapest local example i've seen is a scrape under $9k, I think it was an S2.

The M35's are still between $20k and $30k but again they're coming down in price.

Food for thought. :woot:

Edit:

I should clarify on models with picture examples....

C34 Series I:

IMG_2288.jpg

C34 Series II:

l_2f9e0ca89abb2dd64566e54bee4f4db0.jpg

M35:

s_stagea_m35.jpg

I have had a 260RS for 3 months. Apart from the obvious advantages of RB26DETT and GTR drivetrain, I've been very impressed by the overall build quality of the car. The interior has not rattles and is still like new after 10 years! The ride quality is excellent and the handling is damn good for a wagon. Actually, I think it handles better than my old GTI-R.

Yeah, it gets lots of looks with people saying "WTF is that". The other day I was at the lights and a tradey in his ute pulled up next to me. My wife noticed he was looking at the front wheel and then his passenger leans forward and looks. Must be the brembos...tehy coudln't figure out who would put brembos on a wagon :woot: Hahaha.

Oh yeah, if you want to keep your license, I wouldn't recommend a 260RS :P

Um i really like the series 1 nose, but the series 2 with the neo is a nice option. I dont want the 260 autech because i hate 26's but dont mind the 25's. I will be looking to spend 15 to 20 on my next car.

The thing i did like about the integra is that it is great on fuel, and it never broke down. Just turn the key and go. I guess im sick of working on cars when i had the 31's and owning the integra was a nice change.

I have to slow down and i just wanna a nice cruiser thats reliable. I also will be putting in a full system with tv's and a playstation. Just so when i take the guys and chickies for a drive that will keep them entertained.

Im just not a big fan of the 26's. I dont want to get into a debate on 25 vs 26. If toyota bought out a wagon that looked like a stagea and had a 1j or 2j ide be getting that. But they dont so i gotta go nissan again. Ive seen 25's take alot of punishment which is a feat in its own. Ill be running stock boost and dont want too many mods, mainly an autech bodykit and nice wheels.

my stagea is great ! no rattles, groans or squeaks

keeps up with any car in the traffic light gran`prix

(tuning again today!)

fuel bill is no different to an aussie V8 (had a VR bt1 to compare it with) if properly tuned, by that I mean piggybacks and ecu chip mod (S1, from sau member Toshi)

S1 rb25 is my choice, auto awd is perfect for the road

(bare in mind my S1 is fully mod'd, 18k car 3yrs ago plus 14k mods)

you can pick up S1 from 9k to 12k for a decent one, for 15k itd have to be realy nice. I doubt Id even get 16k for mine even with the huge list of modified parts

my stagea is great ! no rattles, groans or squeaks

keeps up with any car in the traffic light gran`prix

(tuning again today!)

fuel bill is no different to an aussie V8 (had a VR bt1 to compare it with) if properly tuned, by that I mean piggybacks and ecu chip mod (S1, from sau member Toshi)

S1 rb25 is my choice, auto awd is perfect for the road

(bare in mind my S1 is fully mod'd, 18k car 3yrs ago plus 14k mods)

you can pick up S1 from 9k to 12k for a decent one, for 15k itd have to be realy nice. I doubt Id even get 16k for mine even with the huge list of modified parts

I seem to get pretty good fuel economy from my s2 manual compared to the autos.

Edited by momo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...