Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by predator666

:)  

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=23144

Doesn't that fit under the above classification? even if it is a Magna

firstly... i want to apologise coz i didn't read this thread.

secondly... this was at calder at the strip not on the roads ....yes that'll do

thirdly... i didn't stall the auto coz i didn't have time before the lights changed but i would have still lost anyways.

fourthly... and finally... my car is not completely stock. i have a cat-back, filter, and CAI. so that factors into the equation...

After 100k the engine ain't making no where near the stock power outputs and with my mods i rekon it brings it back to almost on par. As for the verada with 20k on the clock it is pretty much making initial power and hasn;t lost power due to wear and tear.

I'm thinking of getting that dump pipe from BATMBL does anyone think this will make any difference?

cheers,

Waz.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Often those mitsubishi's wanna test their car against me (Everyone thinks I drive an M3, not a 325i)... A few times I've taken the challenge... My car is faster in all ways, except the driver - I don't ever hammer my clutch, so baby it off the line at 2000rpm which generally sees me giving them a long lead to start with - still, i gain on them pretty quickly. :)

But then again, my engine is a finely tuned 2.5l 6cyl BMW engine with VANOS (still, it's stock)!

Guest INASNT

I been driving the new 2003 magnas around up north (hire cars) and they go preety nice. They really start to move from around 3500rpm and pull preety hard through to 6000rpm redline, but they torque steer preety bad to the right when accelerating hard.

Sound like you auto tranny is the thing letting u down waz

An auto GTS-t will smoke a lighter 3.5V6 Magna, let alone the heavier Verada!!!!!

My GTS-t was an auto, and my friend's Magna can't even keep up even in 0-60 acceleration only..... they don't make as much power, and all Magna/Verada range are lots heavier than skylines... talk about power to weight ratio, you know who the winner is...

Originally posted by rs73

An auto GTS-t will smoke a lighter 3.5V6 Magna, let alone the heavier Verada!!!!!

Why I know this? My GTS-t was an auto, and my friend's Magna can't even keep up even in 0-80 acceleration only..... they don't make as much power, and all Magna/Verada range are lots heavier than skylines... talk about power to weight ratio, you know who the winner is...

what's my problem then?

could it be too thick oil (i use 15w60)? is something stuffed do you think?

any ideas... and i'm not talking about modding i mean what would bring the power back to what it should be

Oh, urs is R32? I dunno abt auto R32, your RB20DET makes less power than RB25DET from factory.

Mine was R33 auto (I have now converted to manual), and I got 138rwkw back when it was an auto. Now I got 154rwkw so with more power, I'm sure it would be faster than any Magna or Verada. Don't think it's the oil. I use 10w40 shouldn't be too much different with your 15w60.

So that could be the reason why your R32 GTS-t is having a tough time to beat a Magna. Mind though that the latest VR-X series Magna & Verada engines made at least 163kw. Not sure about rwkw but I would imagine somewhere around 120rwkw depend on the condition of clutch or torque converter.... and their 3.5L engine definitely have more low down torque than lumpy low response RB engines. Our RBs only get lively above 3000rpm. Over 400m if you keep accelerating, I am sure your R32 will win by a lot, but not 0-60.

Well, you need to go to the drag strip to prove 400m, not on the street!

didnt read the 32 part :P

all i know is that i raced at calder against a supercharged 3.8litre holden when my car was stock other than a catback (only just imported from Japan about a month earlier) and i beat him by about a car length... the SS i raced on the same night which had a zorst and air filter beat me by about the same length :D way too much torque for my little 2litre hehe even tho i did hit rev limiter on second gear (first time ever dragging or doing those speeds).

both cars i raced were auto... when i was a n00b driver... if i can beat a supercharged 3.8litre in a manual i cannot see any reason why u could not beat a 3.5litre NA auto.

PS. magnas dont have RWKW :) they are FWD :)

the verada 3.5 V6 isn't as bad as i think everyone believes. they are heaps quicker than an equivalent commonwhore.

you have to remember that most magna/verada's are the 3.0 V6 version. its only the later models that are the 3.5L and they kill it off the line...

and redlineGTR... stop whoring :P

i just think what i would do if i had a spare couple of grand to put into the car... hmmmm...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...