Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently bought a 32 and have sometimes noticed a whiff of petrol when parked and sometimes when driving. I had a look around in the engine bay and noticed it was a bit damp and dirty around a few of the injectors. I've done a search and found it seems to be common occurance with rb20s.

My question is, is it something dangerous that needs fixing asap? Could I go through a drift/track day with it?

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/
Share on other sites

think about it like this, you have fuel leaking out of a pressurised source into a hot engine bay.

so a highly flameable material next to a whole heap of heat, and if it leaks a lil more and has a bit of a spray instead, and it gets on the exhaust then yeah, big trouble

if you have a car problem related to one of these

FUEL

BRAKES

SUSPENTION

then get it fixed immeditatly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/#findComment-4064543
Share on other sites

Time for some GTR injectors
No it's not. That would entail a re-tune to compensate for the higher amounts of fuel that would be delivered on each opening of the injector.

Get the injectors looked at. They may be repairable. If not, then replace them with RB20 injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/#findComment-4065412
Share on other sites

Very common.

Clean the effected area to locate the exact spot of the leak. Its most likely from

- the o-ring up top

- upper insulator

- lower insulator

- the injector body itself (the plastic part where theres an indent from the injection molding

Nissan OEM seal/insulator are about $80'ish I think, though theres a link on SAU from a guy who sells them for dollars.

Iv never done it, though guess you could pressurize the FPR to simulate having some boost / load under it; proper rail pressure would assist in locating leak.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/#findComment-4067376
Share on other sites

I had an issue in my 180sx as well, was a pinched 0-ring, took the injectors out, replaced all the 0-rings and had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned while out of the car.

Turns out, my injectors where so far gone that 3 of the 4 where stock open to some degree, and the 4th was spraying all over the place. Cleaned the injectors, re-fitted them with new o-rings.

The difference was amazing, and something else that I found was the injectors being stuck open mean that fuel was leaking into the cylinder when the engine was shut off, and if left overnight would eventually soak down into the sump and foul the oil as well, so I had seriously thin oil, and fuel leaking outside of the engine.

Also, as Adam said, any track that is worth bothering about will spot the leaking injector patch and immediately turn the car around as a risk.

Thanks,

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/#findComment-4068686
Share on other sites

Also going to check out my O2 sensor as my fuel economy is rubbish!

You have confirmed you have leaking injectors, and then you say you have poor fuel econemy, I am going to sound a little smart-arse here, but I would put some of that poor fuel econemy to the fuelt hat is leaking out of the engine block and vanishing down the side of the block, instead of into the cylinders for combustion.

Make sense?

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/#findComment-4069239
Share on other sites

On the way home from work I gave the car a quick squirt down my road and I heard the injector start ticking. Popped the bonnet and there was a shitload of fuel around #3 injector. Almost dripping out.

I've stopped driving the car untill I get it fixed now :worship:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231436-leaky-injectors/#findComment-4073392
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...