Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,I still discovering the fascinating and frightening world of my stagea...a little redish mark coming from under the mirror?is it possible to fix it myself?I could apreciate any advise how to dismount the mirrors... by the way my drivers mirror has a little play can it be tightened ? thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232004-under-mirror-rust/
Share on other sites

they all rust there coz nissan dicided to put a piece of foam stuff behind there to hold the water and create rust for sum good reason?

if you can see it creeping out from under the mirrior then by the time you grind the rust out n patch it up youl have to paint the whole door and you might aswell do both sides :wave: im waiting till someone dents my door before i fix mine but thats easy for me considering i work at a crash shop.

any ways the trims are easy to get off besides a couple of fidly bits around the handle then its just a couple of screws n have a look. put some sort of rust repeler or somethn on it to slow it down before you put it bak together if you do.

Thanks,for the answer ...there is not much rust yet ,so do you think that a little of rust converter could momentarily fix it?

Do you have any diagram/picture of how to disassemble the door panel?I don't want to break any clip that holds it :whistling: in place

If you can see a little rust coming from under the mirror it means there is probably about an inch or more still under the mirror... i thought mine only had a little bit took the mirror off and the patch of rush was considerably bigger than i thought...

Might have to get it done soon, yet i don't want to pay for someone to do it only for the rust to come back is there a way to rust proof the area once it has been fixed up??

Cheers

yeah the rust will be alot worse than u can see. it starts were the door skin is welded to the frame and works its way out from there.

like i said though by the time you grind it out n patch it up youl be painting the door. then spray rust proofing behind the repair and loose the foam padding behind the mirror so the water doesnt hold there.

i gota do mine soon its getting worse every time i look at it.

its just big dallars to do it proply due to rust being the worst or most headace of a repair to do. and youl have to paint the guard aswell to get the colour rite which means the front bar has to come off and so on.

same probs here too .. little hairline crack in the paint around teh mirror where the rust has broke free ... not the big a problem atm... like the other dude said .. but i'll wait till some dickhead in the area scratches it. . . also little rust marks in the engine bay were some plate has been welded around the strut towers .. weird .. but all the other pannels and still factory joins .. guessing again nissan's weird factory design ? or jap owner wanting a more neat engine bay .. who know's ... maybe some else who owns a s2

Thanks,for the answer ...there is not much rust yet ,so do you think that a little of rust converter could momentarily fix it?

Do you have any diagram/picture of how to disassemble the door panel?I don't want to break any clip that holds it :D in place

its best to sand and chip away all the really flaky rust and paint and then sand the majority of the rust back to good metal, then rust converter on it to stop any more rust, and to let it drip down into the door to neutralise any more rust. then primer and paint the metal with a good enamel paint. then afterwards i soaked the inside of the door with fish oil until it dripped from all the door drains. the car stunk for a week or two but i wont have to worry about any more rust in the doors :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 馃ぃ, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
    • This is mine, works a treat for the cars, suction is good, I use the Bissell clean and protect stuff I have found giving it a good spray and light scrub with the soft brush on the head of the nossle for carpet, and a rub with a microfibre for cloth seats and cloth door trims, prior to another quick spray before vacuuming it up works the best @GTSBoy You would surprised on what it gets out of carpet and seats that actually "look" clean, I recommend that you test drive yours when you have a little time to kill, then post pics of the muddy looking water that I believe you will find
  • Create New...