Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,I still discovering the fascinating and frightening world of my stagea...a little redish mark coming from under the mirror?is it possible to fix it myself?I could apreciate any advise how to dismount the mirrors... by the way my drivers mirror has a little play can it be tightened ? thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232004-under-mirror-rust/
Share on other sites

they all rust there coz nissan dicided to put a piece of foam stuff behind there to hold the water and create rust for sum good reason?

if you can see it creeping out from under the mirrior then by the time you grind the rust out n patch it up youl have to paint the whole door and you might aswell do both sides :wave: im waiting till someone dents my door before i fix mine but thats easy for me considering i work at a crash shop.

any ways the trims are easy to get off besides a couple of fidly bits around the handle then its just a couple of screws n have a look. put some sort of rust repeler or somethn on it to slow it down before you put it bak together if you do.

Thanks,for the answer ...there is not much rust yet ,so do you think that a little of rust converter could momentarily fix it?

Do you have any diagram/picture of how to disassemble the door panel?I don't want to break any clip that holds it :whistling: in place

If you can see a little rust coming from under the mirror it means there is probably about an inch or more still under the mirror... i thought mine only had a little bit took the mirror off and the patch of rush was considerably bigger than i thought...

Might have to get it done soon, yet i don't want to pay for someone to do it only for the rust to come back is there a way to rust proof the area once it has been fixed up??

Cheers

yeah the rust will be alot worse than u can see. it starts were the door skin is welded to the frame and works its way out from there.

like i said though by the time you grind it out n patch it up youl be painting the door. then spray rust proofing behind the repair and loose the foam padding behind the mirror so the water doesnt hold there.

i gota do mine soon its getting worse every time i look at it.

its just big dallars to do it proply due to rust being the worst or most headace of a repair to do. and youl have to paint the guard aswell to get the colour rite which means the front bar has to come off and so on.

same probs here too .. little hairline crack in the paint around teh mirror where the rust has broke free ... not the big a problem atm... like the other dude said .. but i'll wait till some dickhead in the area scratches it. . . also little rust marks in the engine bay were some plate has been welded around the strut towers .. weird .. but all the other pannels and still factory joins .. guessing again nissan's weird factory design ? or jap owner wanting a more neat engine bay .. who know's ... maybe some else who owns a s2

Thanks,for the answer ...there is not much rust yet ,so do you think that a little of rust converter could momentarily fix it?

Do you have any diagram/picture of how to disassemble the door panel?I don't want to break any clip that holds it :D in place

its best to sand and chip away all the really flaky rust and paint and then sand the majority of the rust back to good metal, then rust converter on it to stop any more rust, and to let it drip down into the door to neutralise any more rust. then primer and paint the metal with a good enamel paint. then afterwards i soaked the inside of the door with fish oil until it dripped from all the door drains. the car stunk for a week or two but i wont have to worry about any more rust in the doors :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...