Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi. I hope to clear up what it is we do and how much it is.

We modify the stock ECU with a board made with the help of a Korean friend Kuk, from Kuks Autos in S Korea. The m\board allows us to store the "maps" on seperate re-flashable memory, not like UV style chips. Also imbedded is an additional socket allowing the use of a real time emulator. Allowing the skilled tuner, with the correct knowhow and software, to real time custom tune the vehicles ECU. The board is contained within the factory ECU case. All standard diag tools still function perfectly as does the factory boost controller. I have been wondering about pricing, and reading all the posts. As my main area has been remapping mainly Euro cars using only the factory DME (Digital Motor Electronics) for many years. I am sure that you guys can give me an honest opinion. I would think that for a basic tune such as the one shown in this thread should cost $750. This includes a complete custom tune to suit that exact vehicle. Not a simple "blow n go" tune, which are never perfect, or take into account the precise tune for that exact vehicle. The whole job takes over 4 hours start to finish and involves some very expensive equipment. Full enclosed 4WD dyno cell with 20kw of extraction system. Realtime data streaming. State of the art hi speed emulation equipment, allowing real time access to all running maps. Solder re-work station, hi speed programmers, laptops, coffee :P Experienced blokes (who dont come cheap nowdays). Remember that this upgrade allows you, or us to tune the car again and again. Using the factory ECU is the best solution for 90% of tuned cars, all the nice starting, dials working correctly, good knock control, closed loop control, the list goes on. This is less than the cost of a re-map on a LS1 etc, around $600-$700 less than a VW TFSI Golf. I am happy to answer any questions.

Hi. I hope to clear up what it is we do and how much it is.

We modify the stock ECU with a board made with the help of a Korean friend Kuk, from Kuks Autos in S Korea. The m\board allows us to store the "maps" on seperate re-flashable memory, not like UV style chips. Also imbedded is an additional socket allowing the use of a real time emulator. Allowing the skilled tuner, with the correct knowhow and software, to real time custom tune the vehicles ECU. The board is contained within the factory ECU case. All standard diag tools still function perfectly as does the factory boost controller. I have been wondering about pricing, and reading all the posts. As my main area has been remapping mainly Euro cars using only the factory DME (Digital Motor Electronics) for many years. I am sure that you guys can give me an honest opinion. I would think that for a basic tune such as the one shown in this thread should cost $750. This includes a complete custom tune to suit that exact vehicle. Not a simple "blow n go" tune, which are never perfect, or take into account the precise tune for that exact vehicle. The whole job takes over 4 hours start to finish and involves some very expensive equipment. Full enclosed 4WD dyno cell with 20kw of extraction system. Realtime data streaming. State of the art hi speed emulation equipment, allowing real time access to all running maps. Solder re-work station, hi speed programmers, laptops, coffee :( Experienced blokes (who dont come cheap nowdays). Remember that this upgrade allows you, or us to tune the car again and again. Using the factory ECU is the best solution for 90% of tuned cars, all the nice starting, dials working correctly, good knock control, closed loop control, the list goes on. This is less than the cost of a re-map on a LS1 etc, around $600-$700 less than a VW TFSI Golf. I am happy to answer any questions.

Yes a first class tune on a dyno beats a mail order "chip" which may or may not suit your car. People are charging $250 to $1000 plus for a dynotune. But do you have plans to sell just the hardware and software with instructions? I would be interested in making my ECU tuneable but what exactly can be altered after your modification? Timing across the range? A/F ratios across the range? You mentioned the boost control solenoid -( what would determine its settings?) What else?. I would be interested in a modified ECU that could be tuned by me or my local dyno shop (not being in Aus).

Converting the ECU is not a big problem. However the tuning has to be done in HEX. This means whomever you are going to get to tune it will need some special software. It is not like VCM or Open ECU etc, it requires that you know the HEX address of the map areas you wish to change. Have a talk with a good tuning shop near you, maybe we can set them up to become a dealer for the product and help them with the software. We can tune it here and transferr the files to be uploaded at your end and tested. The chips we use require a particular programmer. You can test the tune on the dyno and we can make the changes here, then send you the file and you "flash" it in and test again. This might work. See if you local tuner wants to get involved. J

You are running a business and no doubt have costs and expenses etc.

the problem for me in justifying $1K is that you are doing what others do for the same results for about $350-$500 at most.

If someone came in with a stock R34 gtt and gave you $10K worth of bolt on parts and asked you to also tune the stock ecu, I'd understand the $1K cost.

but given that the car is stock, with stock variables, keeping stock turbo and afm, then it's the same as any other R34 with stock turbo and AFM.

The very first time it is done for the very first R34, it will take time on the dyno. getting it all right.

but the next R34 you get, why would you not start with the last good tune you did, stick it on the dyno and run it up.

check results and adjust if necessary.

why would that cost $1k (or whatever it the actual final cost is).

Like I said, you are a business with staff and coffee etc.

you have higher costs than say Toshi or CEF11E from these forums... who are members who can do remaps/burns/daughter boards etc.

CEF11E modified his own Stockish R32 GTST to the tune of 240rwkw mapping his own ecu over and over till he got it right.

cost him dyno time and his own personal time.

Then another member with an R32 GTST went and bought the same parts, and payed ceff1e $50 for that tuned chip.

made 240rwkw.

Toshi charges $350 for rechipped/mapped R33 ecu's with certain mods.

everyone that has got it has made the similar power (2 recent ones were 198.9rwkw and 199.1rwkw) in 2 different states.

both had same mods.

This particular R34 of the OP has made the same power as every other R34 using stock turbo with what is probably 10 psi with usual breathing mods.

I'm not saying you did a bad job.

I'm just trying to explain the reason why "I" think this is such an expensive "remap/chip" for what is essentially the same as all the others.

Thanks for the back-up there James. I think what one of the most important differences here that justifies the extra cost is that this is a vehicle specific tune that can be changed if for instance you added more mods that would throw out your original tune and utilises quality technology and expertise. And if you compare the difference if say you were to purchase a power fc then have that tuned as well this is a significantly cheaper option which gives similar tuning perameters.

Jizm

The R32 ECU requires no boards fitted to allow tuning, only a socket to allow the memory to be removed and re-fitted. The cost of a "Postal Tune" for daughter board ECU's could be $500 and $700 for a full custom on the dyno. Even when you start with a dialed in tune it still would require at least one hours time to check and tune correctly. As a note we can also do the Nissan Patrol ECU, with a dual map set up on the board :action-smiley-069: We have a 4800 here just getting finished off GT35/82R Turbo fitted with charge cooler. All running off the factory ECU, upgraded injectors and auto. Should be real silly. We also have complete tuning updates for all GTR35 vehicles including speed limiter removal and rev increase.

Fitting centres in Sydney and Adelaide. I am unsure if I am allowed to put the names up as I am not a sponsor. J

James,

Just wondering if what emulator you are using? Both Bikirom, and myself with NRE have been using the MultiRom16L for several years now on R34s with real time tuning using full map tracing, live map editing, 3D map displays etc etc... I would be very interested in speaking to you regarding the particular boards and data storage with you if you are interested? I'm assuming you're still using the factory option on the R34 of the 80pin ribbon cable with the external maps being selected by moving the 0ohm resistors on the main board?

Also, very interested in other vehicle applications you may have available? V35? Z33? etc...

Regards,

Sam

0425 818 755

James,

Just wondering if what emulator you are using? Both Bikirom, and myself with NRE have been using the MultiRom16L for several years now on R34s with real time tuning using full map tracing, live map editing, 3D map displays etc etc... I would be very interested in speaking to you regarding the particular boards and data storage with you if you are interested? I'm assuming you're still using the factory option on the R34 of the 80pin ribbon cable with the external maps being selected by moving the 0ohm resistors on the main board?

Also, very interested in other vehicle applications you may have available? V35? Z33? etc...

Regards,

Sam

0425 818 755

V35 no problem, 350Z, Patrol also done.

I will try and give you a call

I use German tuning tools, come from a background of Porsche Tuning both DME and mechanical upgrades. Ex Factory Master Tech for Porsche UK. Built Cup car engines for a while.

The ECU upgrades are similar to as you described. :D

I look forward to finally talking to "DrDrift" J

Things sure have changed. I've still got my old stock ECU with daughterboard lying around somewhere tuned for 480cc injectors and highflow turbo. AFAIK it was the first in Australia - now everyone is complaining about the cost instead of lack of availability. This thread is cloudy with R33 and R32 ECU talk. Getting a PFC tuned costs $500-800 I guess so how is this much different? Can it be used with different injectors and AFM's?

James,

I look forward to your call, always eager to learn, listen, and hopefully share, my phone is always on. Please feel comfortable calling anytime before 1am, sleep is a dreadful waste of time!

Sam.

i went and saw toshi last sunday i am getting a remap done by him. at 13 psi dropping down to 12 with my set of mods will definetely see over 200kw and all up supplied fitted and tuned only costs $450

i was looking at getting same performance and power figures from power fc and tune which would have cost $2000 + stuff that.

he said he can also do this same tune of the factory ECU for up to 400hp. and has tuned aftermarket turbos. once put on the dyno his road tunes were only the slightest bit out in comparison to a dyno tune. so slight there was hardly any difference. bang for buck. toshi's the man.

Drew - Noting from your other posts you have an R33 and I got the impression intent on modifying it further - The only downside is your ecu is not real time tunable... and no one without removing your ecu and making it real time tunable, or using a real time tunable ecu for tuning and then burn the final image back to a single burn cpu chip (which is an expensive no longer produced and relying on old stock product) back into your ecu, can tune it in real time.

Bang for your buck if your not doing any further mods Toshi is your man.

I am remaping R33 ECU real time tune by daughter board.(and nistune softwear)

And this data burn to single chip.

So I am able to remap any tune.

Single burn chip is much cheaper than daughter board.(Also I am saling daughter board if custermer want to daughter board.)

I means how much is custermer want to pay.

Sigle burn chip is cheaper and daughter board is expensive.

If custermer will go to another state and he want to fit daughter board I am able to do it.

If custermer chasing over 370-380hp (about 270kw)I recommend power FC or any after market computer.

Emision control is remap ecu much better than power fc.

I think street car is remap and like a race car is aftermaket computer.

Remap is much better than piggy back computer for skylinens and silvias ECU.(R34 GTT have boost limitter(about 14psi) and can not remove by piggy back computer)

Drew - Noting from your other posts you have an R33 and I got the impression intent on modifying it further - The only downside is your ecu is not real time tunable... and no one without removing your ecu and making it real time tunable, or using a real time tunable ecu for tuning and then burn the final image back to a single burn cpu chip (which is an expensive no longer produced and relying on old stock product) back into your ecu, can tune it in real time.

Bang for your buck if your not doing any further mods Toshi is your man.

By the sounds we're starting to flesh out some of the more important similarities and differences a tune like this can offer. And its all pretty interesting to know exactly what's available and how many options we have at our disposal. I spose now its just a matter of finalising what kind of cost is involved and what kind of application suits each specific person. ei. using this tune means that your ECU is still tunable for when you add further modifications, which lets face it, nearly always happens lol.

Can someone tell me which ecu-remap allows boost control using the factory boost solenoid? Or do all of them do it, and a decision has been made not to implement that feature?

I'm not sure if Skyline ECUs implement boost control other than just cutting the boost as a safety feature. My old GTI-R ECU used to run the stock boost solenoid full open (not pulse modulated) normally and close it if there was knock or I declerate or something like that. So there's no facility that I'm aware of (Skylines could be different) that allows you to specify x bar of boost.

Edit: I have a feeling (I could be wrong) that bikirom may have added that functionality via additional hardware. Check on their website.

Edited by BoostedBarge

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...