Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha ha, yep thats why I paid more. Too get my build finished this decade.

Spool rods did have an issue a few years back with rod bolts stretching, but that has been fixed as they include genuine ARP bolts now.

Eagle and others seem to be cheaper now too.

Edited by GTRsean
  • Replies 373
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The way the N1 pump is designed doesn't always fit the way people use them. the drive gear in the pump is made tougher but the process makes it more brittle bouncing the engine off the rev limiter/launch control rev limiting acts like the hammer action on a drill and the gear cracks and falls apart.

The way the N1 pump is designed doesn't always fit the way people use them. the drive gear in the pump is made tougher but the process makes it more brittle bouncing the engine off the rev limiter/launch control rev limiting acts like the hammer action on a drill and the gear cracks and falls apart.

Yeah that's exactly what I've seen somewhere else. Was either another SAU thread or on the GTR UK site. I was all sold on the Tomei pump then had someone tell me that the JUN one was better. But Ed from Autotech said that the JUN one wasn't good. So hard when a lot of this is so opinion based.

So at the moment I'm thinking the Tomei oil pump.

Guys that have done this all before me, can you please let me know wht brands you have used for....

Cams

Pistons

Conrods

Injectors

Oil Pump

I have some ideas now and wanna hear what everyone else is using :D

Cheers.

Cams: Stockers for last build, now 272's

Pistons: CP's in 86.5

Conrods: Spool

Injectors: SARD 740cc played with ones

Oil Pump: JUN, now dry sump

nah tis all ok with me im only after getting back to normal engine ability, im going to do gaskets, rings, pistons, rods, bearings, and then machine it etc and put back in. only wanna use stock power levels or boosting to 10/12 psi etc. plan is to sell after i turn 21 and go back to just using my wagon for a while and save for a 34 gtr v spec hehehehehe

Does anyone know of anyone besides Pro Engines for their engine/head work?? Keen to hear of other places and people's experiences! :D

Getting the respray quoted tomorrow and about to start ordering some more parts. Funtime is not too far away!!

Yep, going to get it on a truck and send it over. Easy to do the engine bay since its already out. They'll also be doing my coilpack cover and cam covers etc.

Keep ya posted! I'm also staying white, not changing colour.

Send it up Kat...our head work is top shelf PM Jz R33 as we just did an engine for him that he picked up on Saturday.

Our engines have a proven track record taking out several Autosalon power championships and powering our R32 drag car to win the Australian title in 2004-2005. We have just built our current engine in our race car to push over the 1000hp mark and into the 8 sec bracket.

Im doing a couple of engines for ACT customers actually...you may know some of them.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...