Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha ha, yep thats why I paid more. Too get my build finished this decade.

Spool rods did have an issue a few years back with rod bolts stretching, but that has been fixed as they include genuine ARP bolts now.

Eagle and others seem to be cheaper now too.

Edited by GTRsean
  • Replies 373
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The way the N1 pump is designed doesn't always fit the way people use them. the drive gear in the pump is made tougher but the process makes it more brittle bouncing the engine off the rev limiter/launch control rev limiting acts like the hammer action on a drill and the gear cracks and falls apart.

The way the N1 pump is designed doesn't always fit the way people use them. the drive gear in the pump is made tougher but the process makes it more brittle bouncing the engine off the rev limiter/launch control rev limiting acts like the hammer action on a drill and the gear cracks and falls apart.

Yeah that's exactly what I've seen somewhere else. Was either another SAU thread or on the GTR UK site. I was all sold on the Tomei pump then had someone tell me that the JUN one was better. But Ed from Autotech said that the JUN one wasn't good. So hard when a lot of this is so opinion based.

So at the moment I'm thinking the Tomei oil pump.

Guys that have done this all before me, can you please let me know wht brands you have used for....

Cams

Pistons

Conrods

Injectors

Oil Pump

I have some ideas now and wanna hear what everyone else is using :D

Cheers.

Cams: Stockers for last build, now 272's

Pistons: CP's in 86.5

Conrods: Spool

Injectors: SARD 740cc played with ones

Oil Pump: JUN, now dry sump

nah tis all ok with me im only after getting back to normal engine ability, im going to do gaskets, rings, pistons, rods, bearings, and then machine it etc and put back in. only wanna use stock power levels or boosting to 10/12 psi etc. plan is to sell after i turn 21 and go back to just using my wagon for a while and save for a 34 gtr v spec hehehehehe

Does anyone know of anyone besides Pro Engines for their engine/head work?? Keen to hear of other places and people's experiences! :D

Getting the respray quoted tomorrow and about to start ordering some more parts. Funtime is not too far away!!

Yep, going to get it on a truck and send it over. Easy to do the engine bay since its already out. They'll also be doing my coilpack cover and cam covers etc.

Keep ya posted! I'm also staying white, not changing colour.

Send it up Kat...our head work is top shelf PM Jz R33 as we just did an engine for him that he picked up on Saturday.

Our engines have a proven track record taking out several Autosalon power championships and powering our R32 drag car to win the Australian title in 2004-2005. We have just built our current engine in our race car to push over the 1000hp mark and into the 8 sec bracket.

Im doing a couple of engines for ACT customers actually...you may know some of them.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...