Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha ha, yep thats why I paid more. Too get my build finished this decade.

Spool rods did have an issue a few years back with rod bolts stretching, but that has been fixed as they include genuine ARP bolts now.

Eagle and others seem to be cheaper now too.

Edited by GTRsean
  • Replies 373
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The way the N1 pump is designed doesn't always fit the way people use them. the drive gear in the pump is made tougher but the process makes it more brittle bouncing the engine off the rev limiter/launch control rev limiting acts like the hammer action on a drill and the gear cracks and falls apart.

The way the N1 pump is designed doesn't always fit the way people use them. the drive gear in the pump is made tougher but the process makes it more brittle bouncing the engine off the rev limiter/launch control rev limiting acts like the hammer action on a drill and the gear cracks and falls apart.

Yeah that's exactly what I've seen somewhere else. Was either another SAU thread or on the GTR UK site. I was all sold on the Tomei pump then had someone tell me that the JUN one was better. But Ed from Autotech said that the JUN one wasn't good. So hard when a lot of this is so opinion based.

So at the moment I'm thinking the Tomei oil pump.

Guys that have done this all before me, can you please let me know wht brands you have used for....

Cams

Pistons

Conrods

Injectors

Oil Pump

I have some ideas now and wanna hear what everyone else is using :D

Cheers.

Cams: Stockers for last build, now 272's

Pistons: CP's in 86.5

Conrods: Spool

Injectors: SARD 740cc played with ones

Oil Pump: JUN, now dry sump

nah tis all ok with me im only after getting back to normal engine ability, im going to do gaskets, rings, pistons, rods, bearings, and then machine it etc and put back in. only wanna use stock power levels or boosting to 10/12 psi etc. plan is to sell after i turn 21 and go back to just using my wagon for a while and save for a 34 gtr v spec hehehehehe

Does anyone know of anyone besides Pro Engines for their engine/head work?? Keen to hear of other places and people's experiences! :D

Getting the respray quoted tomorrow and about to start ordering some more parts. Funtime is not too far away!!

Yep, going to get it on a truck and send it over. Easy to do the engine bay since its already out. They'll also be doing my coilpack cover and cam covers etc.

Keep ya posted! I'm also staying white, not changing colour.

Send it up Kat...our head work is top shelf PM Jz R33 as we just did an engine for him that he picked up on Saturday.

Our engines have a proven track record taking out several Autosalon power championships and powering our R32 drag car to win the Australian title in 2004-2005. We have just built our current engine in our race car to push over the 1000hp mark and into the 8 sec bracket.

Im doing a couple of engines for ACT customers actually...you may know some of them.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...