Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Questions

Damo_c

By Damo_c,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
Posted

Ok so ive installed my fmic and just went for a drive and have noticed a few things.

1st question - should the pipe going into the cooler at the bottom right (looking at the front of the car) be hot and the bottom left be cold or the other way around?

2nd question - ive wound my t boost all the way down and im still hitting close to 12 pound by 3.5 k but doesnt pull as hard as when i had the stock cooler in, it just gathers boost slowly instead of bang its there, is this right?

3rd question - Is there anyway i would know if i have it done the install wrong? eg, different sounds

4th question - My car now idles around 1k where as before it would sit about 800rpm, is this cos of the cooler?

5th - Do i need to do the self learn on idle again with the pfc, it is untuned atm?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232484-intercooler-questions/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

If its idling high check for a loose hose clamp or vac leaks.

Might be worth grabbing a can of start ya bastard and spraying it around the fmic and all joins to see if there is a vac leak.

A fmic will soften the power delivery. I also was a tad dissapointed when I first went an fmic. BUT what it does allow you to do is run a little more boost and make more consistent power after you give it a hiding. Prior to the fmic mine felt quite crappy in third gear after I had given it a few full throttle runs.

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I know itl be better in the long run with a tune and when i get my new turbo (gota still save a bit more) but i just didnt think it would be so different, it feels like ive lost power and not gained any. Soapy water around the clamps would do a similar thing wouldnt it, if checking for leaks? The blow off sounds sooo much better, bugger putting as aftermarket one on now!

Edited by Damo_c
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

1. Yes

2. Your running a larger cooler, more boost and no tune. Of course its not gonig to be great

3. Not really

4. Vac leak maybe, as stated.

5. No, but that comes as no surprise with point #2. - YOU SHOULD NOT BE TRYING TO HIT 12PSI UNTUNED.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
YOU SHOULD NOT BE TRYING TO HIT 12PSI UNTUNED.

So what are you trying to say, that i should not be running a hi flow (to4 front vg30 rear) at .9bar with standard injectors, fuel pump, afm and ecu?

I think im at the limit though, breaks down when it hits 1bar so when it spiked to 1.2 it was not happy at all.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
it may be wrong but from what i have read an untuned pfc is at about the same level as a standard ecu, is this wrong?

I don't know about that but... standard ECU is not much good once you start modifying the engine. The point of a PFC is that you can change timing, Air/fuel ratios etc - untuned its just a waste of $$$ ( and if you've bought it second hand it could have a tune suited to a set-up which is quite different from what you have and could in fact be worse than your fact ecu).

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The maps are basically a direct copy HOWEVER the load points used for a given airflow value is slightly off as the PFC runs a 20x20 vs the std ecu's 16x16 load map.

As a result the pfc usually ends up running a tad more ignition at wot which usually causes the car to det. In my experience anyway. Depends on the level of tune/mods/boost. Would likely be fine for a car running std boost.

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes it is untuned, i was guna save some money for a turbo then a tune. I drive the car very easy at the moment. I dont wanna waste getting a tune then in 2 months having to get another tune after getting the turbo. I hit 12 psi maybe 5 times since ive had the pfc put in, yeah i am risking a bit of engine damage but when the car is my daily driver and i need to floor it a bit to let a cop go thru or something like that, which happened only a week or so ago, so be it, but ive been very careful as to change at about 2800-3000 light accelaration so bugger all boost. The tune will be happening very soon cos now youve gotten me all worried. Gota use the left over moeny from my wedding to do so. Ive got the t boost wound all the way down but its still boosting up. The pfc is brand new so there is not another cars tune on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...