Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nissan do this, it means you have the special million dollar winning car,

Nah, but unscrew the 4 screws in the speedo, pull it out, check the speedo cable is plugged in properly, if it is, then check the sensor at the other end(gearbox end is still working, follow the cable up, sometimes they snap, if it's buggered just get a new speedo cable, if it's not, then you might need to take it to a mechanic, something must be stopping it from spinning)

If the speedo and P/S are still working, then it shouldn't be a problem with the cable.

The Japanese seem less opposed to fiddling odometers (winding them back). It's possible some sort of damage was done that prevents the odometer going past 100k.

I have the same problem as mine started to play up at 75000kms and fixed itself.

It has now hit 80000kms and wont budge, even the trip meter has stopped.

So I pulled it apart today and had a look seemed easy enough but I couldn't find anything wrong so I just pushed the odometer numbers gently past 80000 with a small screwdriver.

Dunno if this has worked yet as my radiator is out and I cant drive it.

Will let you know as soon as I do tho.

On a side note my boost guage seems to be playing up.

When Im idling the guage reads 0 pressure not vacuum, but when I start to boost it it climbs up.

Also noticed that when the car is off it falls down to 7 deg vacuum.

Any ideas????

I have exactly the same problem.......

the ODO meter stop when reaching 89999kms

yes, four 9 and doesn't go past the 90000kms!

and the trip meter also stopped........

I opened it up and can see nothing wrong

went to wrecker to buy a used one.

realise that the one I had......doesn't have the P, R, N, D, 1, 2......at the centre......

so I am guessing it is for a manual car

and now maybe I could understand why the O/D light doesn't turn on

so what's the reason behind the not running odometer?

i heard that when your car is moving, you shouldn't reset the trip meter..........but I need confirmation about that lol

and also I think it stopped before I reset -_-"

This is what we were concerned about at 5 mins to midnight on 31/12/99 eh?

Had an N13 that did the same thing, and after about 2 months, the odo moved on. Might have been after speed hump rather than a chicane.... Silly isn't it!

Rubber Mallet? I'll LOL if that works!

the car's odometer just stopped in shock when it realised it was the second time it had clicked over 100,000klm :( I guess they wound it back a fair way.

no idea how to fix it but it is pretty common with these cars

pull it apart and look for the cogs from memory there is one white one and severl black ones, check to see if they are all lined up and "meshing" nicely in there, also make sure no damage to the shaft and that everything is plugged in! Gl hame.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...