Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is there any weight saving? aerodynamics with less wire all over the place?

not sure about weight savings. don't have the actual specs yet though, but i reakon it would probably weigh more because it has to have the battery and the motor, etc. still run cables. don't have the catalogue with it in yet so have only be going off very small pics on their online ordering site. they don't even have them listed on their main website yet.

also if the battery, charger and cables aren't included in the price above (not sure if they will be because i just got the individual prices for the shifters and 2 derailleurs and added it all up) then you can add another $650 onto the price. taking it to around $4000 for the setup. and that doesn't include cassestte or cranks. so what you pay for just the electronic setup, you could nearly buy a complete bike running the manually operated version. and at least then if something goes wrong you know that any bike shop will be able to fix it, as this requires a diagnostic tool which wholesales at over $400 (depending on the problem). something i'm sure as hell not going to invest in.

and yeah campag is good.... if you can afford it. 11 speed ftw

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, just spoke to mate from a shop in brissy who went to the shimano trade show last night. they had the di2 stuff there. looking at about $3600 to $3800 for the full electronics kit (shifters, battery, cables and derailleurs). he said it is ok, but it seems to be more something they have done as a prototype, like how car company make all those cars for the international car shows each year and half of them never actually go into production, and the ones that do often flop after 6 months. he said the some of the stuff was pretty rough (such as the diagnostics unit) and looked like it had been made out of a lunchbox and some lights.

something interesting that he pointed out was that if it is fitted to a carbon frame (and some lightweight alloy frames) and a special backing plate is left off when mounting the front derailleur, you will end up with a hole in your frame the first time you change gears. this is because of the fork in which the motor has to push on the frame to move the derailleur. he also said it has some trimming functions which it automatically does. this is when, for example, you are in the smallest cog on the cranks and the largest on the hub (easiest gear) and if you then change down to the smallest cog on the rear, the derailleur will move over slightly to stop the chain rubbing on it. most of the road bike shifters already have this function though, it just isn't automatic. you just move the shifter about half or what you normally would to change gears.

found this video on youtube about it

ahaha, not quite jase, cause he would have to post the wheels up here first.

no i'm not in vic, i'm in qld

lacing isn't that hard to do once you know what you are doing. if you don't know what you are doing, even just trying to copy a wheel you have sitting next to you can end in disaster. if someone brings a wheel in to me that they have tried to lace and stuffed up, i charge extra to fix it because i have to start from scratch (charge a fee for removing the spokes). often what they do it tighten each spoke up all the way before they put in the next spoke and this ends in disaster (and can end up stuffing the rim)

the problems from incorrect lacing range from sideways buckles (easy to fix), incorrect offset/dish (also easy to fix... most of the time), up and down buckles (harder to fix), rims being damaged (can't be fixed)

if all you are doing is changing the spokes but using the same rim and hub (or changing rims and using old spokes and hub), this is generally pretty easy as you don't have to calculate the spoke length. you can just measure the length of the old spokes.

dishing is also easy, again if you know what you are doing. generally using 2mm shorter spokes on the drive side will give you enough difference to dish it easily.

I should be getting my stuff online from now on, and i can actually post you the rims/hubs and when you're done, you can mail it to me, but its just a thought.

I should be getting my stuff online from now on, and i can actually post you the rims/hubs and when you're done, you can mail it to me, but its just a thought.

cost of postage will probably cost you about $60 all up. maybe more (just guessing). then you have to hope they don't get buckled in transit.

as for buying online, make sure you shop around first and compare the prices to your local shop and take into account the cost of postage. if it is an american online store it will more than likely be lots cheaper, but if it is an aussie store, by the time you take into postage often it will work out to be pretty close to any normal shop. with bmx stuff i run it at the same price as the main aussie online stores, so when the kids come in with something they bought from them i usually make fun of them telling them they would've got it cheaper through me. as for buying stuff from out of the country, if it is something that comes with warranty, to claim the warranty you have to go through where you bought it. you can't just take it into a shop near you and try to claim it (since most companies require proof of purchase for a claim).

and something i meant to add about the electic shifters, i think it will end up being like the air powered shifters shimano brought out a few years back. expensive as hell and no-one bought them

cost of postage will probably cost you about $60 all up. maybe more (just guessing). then you have to hope they don't get buckled in transit.

as for buying online, make sure you shop around first and compare the prices to your local shop and take into account the cost of postage. if it is an american online store it will more than likely be lots cheaper, but if it is an aussie store, by the time you take into postage often it will work out to be pretty close to any normal shop. with bmx stuff i run it at the same price as the main aussie online stores, so when the kids come in with something they bought from them i usually make fun of them telling them they would've got it cheaper through me. as for buying stuff from out of the country, if it is something that comes with warranty, to claim the warranty you have to go through where you bought it. you can't just take it into a shop near you and try to claim it (since most companies require proof of purchase for a claim).

and something i meant to add about the electic shifters, i think it will end up being like the air powered shifters shimano brought out a few years back. expensive as hell and no-one bought them

Yeah, that was just a thought.

CRC does free shipping for purchases over GBP$400. They're pretty cool, i've ordered from them. And their stuff are pretty competitively priced. Like how the RS Reba costs $899 here but on CRC, its sub $600 after conversion to AUD. If i tack on some other random stuff, which i don't really need, i probably can get the free shipping.

Back in singapore we used to do mass orders since singapore was so small, one end to the other takes an hour or less.

And i reckon its hard to beat aspirevelotech's prices for chris king stuff.

I remember seeing them ages ago in AMB mag, they had a 'subscribe and win' comp with them as the major prize. weren't they made primarily for DH/FR?

yeah they were dh/fr gear. only problem was in a crash the air lines were getting ripped off and the tanks were getting damaged, etc.

i have built up 3 wheels this morning. 1 bmx and 2 hybrid wheels. when i was taking the old spokes out of the rear hybrid wheel (i was cutting them cause i had to put new spokes in) and the old spokes had a common problem where they are supposed to be stainless but rust and start breaking, even if there is no pressure on the wheel (can let go with the bike just sitting there). anywho back to my story, i had cut about 2 spokes and was about to cut the 3rd spoke and a different spoke let go and shot up and hit the roof (about 4m high roof) hard enough to make a dent. i've had them let go while the wheel was on it's side and they have flown about 15m across the shop

yeah. sealed bearing run bearings that look like bigger skateboard bearings

although if a bike says on its specs that it has "mechanically sealed" then they are looseball, they just have dust seals..... like every other loose ball hub, LOL

jesus... loose ball then... haha sorry for sounds impatient but i cant get on sau during work hours which is the only time i can contact you... stupid new job... and their stupid.. ive had it up to HERE with their.... REWWWELLLS.

all i wanna know is how much you bai for purple anodised machined-for-brake velocity deep V wheels

=)

Sealed bearings and cartridge bearings.. whats the diff?

And the bearings in the king headset, are sealed yeah?

sealed and cartridge will generally be the same, however in some circumstances it can mean a slightly different setup (bearings themselves will be the same, just how they are held in is different).

rowan, i'll get you a price today

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...