Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

There is a group buy going for the B&M line lock kits, and i was just wondering if any of the drag racers out there have installed them in a skyline. The reason im asking, is because a place i was going to buy one off ages ago said that i'd need two kits to make it work on a skyline. I dont really understand why, but it turned me off the purchase.

I just wanted to confirm whether this is correct, and ask where on the car have people installed the solenoid and cut the brake line.

Its kinda related to forced induction.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/
Share on other sites

only need one, also if your using it to lock on the front, or lock out the rear, you must reverse the flow path depending on what one you choose. If you locking out the rear install it in the reverse of the flow direction on the valve.

Edited by GTR1993
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4087895
Share on other sites

Yeah, mine has ABS.

I just got under the sar, and there is only one line going from the front to the rear, then it splits to each wheel via a distribution block.

Ill upload a pic of this block. Good to know.

Its a very small diameter line to flare though; i wonder how hard it is to install.

Shaun.

post-11456-1219562133_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shaun
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4088118
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys you don't put them right....

You must put this solenoid in your front brake line.

If at the brake master cyllinder there are 2 line for the front brakes you need two line locks if you have only one line you need one line lock.

The differense is if the car has or not abs but I don't remember which has two and which one!

You put the BRAKE pedal!!!!

You push the bottun!!!

Leave your brake pedal and forger it...!

Feel free to PLAY with your clutch and your throttle pedal only...!

When you finish the burning.... push again the botton...

AND.... GO!!!!

If you put them in the rear line you still need to push 3 pedals with two foots :wub::P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4105995
Share on other sites

Problem with that is what if you want to crab walk (aka crawl forward) while doing a burnout. Ide rather have to heel toe it and be able to do rolling burnouts than a boring stationary one

Ps. Installing one of these at the moment. Watch the fittings you put in to them cos they are american and require a special tapered fitting to seal properly. Got an adaptor from a brake parts store but not before I wasted time trying to make my own lines.

Edited by rinmak
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4106006
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...