Jump to content
SAU Community

Line Lock Kits

Shaun

By Shaun,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

Hi,

There is a group buy going for the B&M line lock kits, and i was just wondering if any of the drag racers out there have installed them in a skyline. The reason im asking, is because a place i was going to buy one off ages ago said that i'd need two kits to make it work on a skyline. I dont really understand why, but it turned me off the purchase.

I just wanted to confirm whether this is correct, and ask where on the car have people installed the solenoid and cut the brake line.

Its kinda related to forced induction.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/
Share on other sites
GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted (edited)

only need one, also if your using it to lock on the front, or lock out the rear, you must reverse the flow path depending on what one you choose. If you locking out the rear install it in the reverse of the flow direction on the valve.

Edited by GTR1993
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4087895
Share on other sites
Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah, mine has ABS.

I just got under the sar, and there is only one line going from the front to the rear, then it splits to each wheel via a distribution block.

Ill upload a pic of this block. Good to know.

Its a very small diameter line to flare though; i wonder how hard it is to install.

Shaun.

post-11456-1219562133_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shaun
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4088118
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
GreeceS13 Rising Star

GreeceS13

Posted
Posted

Guys you don't put them right....

You must put this solenoid in your front brake line.

If at the brake master cyllinder there are 2 line for the front brakes you need two line locks if you have only one line you need one line lock.

The differense is if the car has or not abs but I don't remember which has two and which one!

You put the BRAKE pedal!!!!

You push the bottun!!!

Leave your brake pedal and forger it...!

Feel free to PLAY with your clutch and your throttle pedal only...!

When you finish the burning.... push again the botton...

AND.... GO!!!!

If you put them in the rear line you still need to push 3 pedals with two foots :wub::P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4105995
Share on other sites
rinmak Proficient

rinmak

Posted
Posted (edited)

Problem with that is what if you want to crab walk (aka crawl forward) while doing a burnout. Ide rather have to heel toe it and be able to do rolling burnouts than a boring stationary one

Ps. Installing one of these at the moment. Watch the fittings you put in to them cos they are american and require a special tapered fitting to seal properly. Got an adaptor from a brake parts store but not before I wasted time trying to make my own lines.

Edited by rinmak
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4106006
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...