Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know the maths to calculate?

I took my 4dr r33 to the drags for the 1st time and these where the results. I am interested what they equate to in rwkws as I have not had the car dynoed recently

13.331 @ 114.74

13.073 @ 114.13

13.065 @ 107.32

Any help appreciated

ive had cars run 11.70 with 285rwk. i doubt 30kw=1.3sec. the mph shows about 220kw at the wheels. your mph is showing about 220ish also

  [Michael] said:

i ran 13.0 @ 113mph and at the time my car had 251.7rwkw

14.0 @ 98 came from my apprentices stock r32 4 door running 13psi on MTs.

not bad hey.

  JAS-25T said:
14.0 @98MPH............

oh.

no one showed me how to convert the other way around :D

  Brokenz said:
13.331 @ 114.74

13.073 @ 114.13

13.065 @ 107.32

The power estimates mate on here have me confounded - ~220rwkw seems to be the accepted approximate power for an R33 running 114-115mph?

What is done to your car? On our dynos (well most dynos around the world) 220rwkw is achieveable at a stretch on a stock turbo but trap speeds >114mph are very much not achieveable with the stock turbo on an R33. To be running those kinds of times/speeds I'd be hoping to see you are running around 1bar of boost, maybe a fraction more otherwise I am about to get very depressed.

  2rismo said:
I ran 111mph with no more than 200kW.

I wasn't talking about the dyno power, I am thinking of almost completely disregarding Oz dyno results - they mess with my head. Now I am just talking about outright modifications, trap speed sounds like it'd be a better measure of what the engine and car is doing that trying to work out what on earth the different between your dynos and everyone elses is, I just want to know if his car is doing substantially more than what 220rwkw means to me if that makes sense?

My car has run in the same kind of territory trap speed wise, running ~14psi through a GT30R on a completely stock RB25DET on a fairly slippery strip (actually an airfield...) but makes much more than 220rwkw on the dyno I run my car on, well actually ALL of the ones I have run it on which includes a rolling road dyno it made 260rwkw on. What I am hoping to hear is that my car for the mods it has that the times/trap speeds in the conditions aren't TOO bad.

Forget dynos then. The calculations I have used above take trap speed and weight and convert it to engine horsepower. I then converted that to rwkw. It could well be the case that this car makes 240-250kW at the back wheels but for this to be the case, it would relate to one or more of the following:

a/ weigh more than the 3350lbs I've allowed for

b/ have had a non representative run on the track

c/ been racing on a ridiculously bad track

d/ have had a schmuck behind the wheel

Don't get your knickers in a knot over chassis dyno figures. The big, black dyno never lies.

One of the reason I asked in my mate just got his GTR dynoed and was 490hp at one workshop and 404hp at a different workshop which makes me wonder how accurate these figures are.

I only had my car dynoed once at the last Nissan track day at QR Raceway and it was 192kw at the rear wheels but that was with stuffed coils breaking down at higher revs, and running .09 bar. Now has Splitfires and running 1.1 bar otherwise same spec. Car is in full street trim but has some mods HKS2535, Power Fc, 550cc Inj, Z32 AFM etc.

I will put it on the dyno next week and see what the result is, but I thought trap time might give a more accurate figure

  Brokenz said:
I only had my car dynoed once at the last Nissan track day at QR Raceway and it was 192kw at the rear wheels but that was with stuffed coils breaking down at higher revs, and running .09 bar. Now has Splitfires and running 1.1 bar otherwise same spec. Car is in full street trim but has some mods HKS2535, Power Fc, 550cc Inj, Z32 AFM etc.

I will put it on the dyno next week and see what the result is, but I thought trap time might give a more accurate figure

Yeah this is the short of it, dynos are all over the place in readings - in Australia they seem to be all up the crapper as once I think I am starting to work it out a new strange result comes up. Dynapack, Dynojet etc used around the rest of the world have a bit of variance but they are all close enough to each other to get a rough idea.

I am glad to hear you are running ~1.1bar, its about what I expected for the trap speeds you were running (as said in an earlier post) - so long as its on a turbo which can more or less support it thats what it should trap. On the dynos I run on for what its worth, I'd expect it to be making in the territory of 250rwkw with a crap load of torque.

  Lithium said:
Yeah this is the short of it, dynos are all over the place in readings - in Australia they seem to be all up the crapper as once I think I am starting to work it out a new strange result comes up. Dynapack, Dynojet etc used around the rest of the world have a bit of variance but they are all close enough to each other to get a rough idea.

I am glad to hear you are running ~1.1bar, its about what I expected for the trap speeds you were running (as said in an earlier post) - so long as its on a turbo which can more or less support it thats what it should trap. On the dynos I run on for what its worth, I'd expect it to be making in the territory of 250rwkw with a crap load of torque.

A correctly operated Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno in the appropriate shootout mode will register pretty well spot on regardless of weather conditions etc. Making sure it's operated correctly is another thing all together.

  2rismo said:
A correctly operated Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno in the appropriate shootout mode will register pretty well spot on regardless of weather conditions etc. Making sure it's operated correctly is another thing all together.

By spot on do you mean more or less consistant with the other dyno types, or just consistant with other Dyno Dynamics set up for shootout mode? I have noticed that there seem to be occasional readings from DD dynos which seem similar to what I'd expect from a Dynapack.

  Lithium said:
By spot on do you mean more or less consistant with the other dyno types, or just consistant with other Dyno Dynamics set up for shootout mode? I have noticed that there seem to be occasional readings from DD dynos which seem similar to what I'd expect from a Dynapack.

Spot on with other Dyno Dynamics chassis dynos run in the same fashion.

  • 1 month later...

MPH verses weight is the easiest and best way to get a pretty acurate guage the vehicles WHP.

If you can run X amount of MPH and your car weighs X amount, you must have at least a certain amount of whp to do it.

When we ran 162mph on street tyres in street trim, the power required to do so matched our dyno numbers within a few whp but in general I don't take much notice of dyno numbers as MPH doesn't lie.

Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
  • Create New...