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^^ i totally agree with u dude. i really need to piss off this emanage, i watched him tune it, theres f**k all room for fine adjustments with the emanage... could also be the fact that i have a central 20 ecu as well, might be conflicting somewhere??? ahhh if only pfc were cheaper...

Your call but I reckon a little more turbo and a little less boost , jeez those 2535's aren't real big on the hot side and the restriction generally leads to a thermal thrashing .

Pro S and IW GT3071R's cost a bit but you get much less restriction from them on the hot side and a more modern compressor wheel as well .

Again IMO the whole dump flange system from the std Hitachi footprint is not the best one to go beat the world with .

I understand that bolt on turbo solutions have to keep it but it has its limitations .

A .

Easy answer is throw on a Nissan RB25 wastegate actuator and get the boost down under control. Boost alone wont kill the engine, temperature alone wont. Revs alone wont and coolant and oil temps wont kill an engine alone.

As others have pointed out, you are borderline on boost, and its the worse sort of boost in that the engine isnt working effeicently with effecient exhaust of combusted gases. Its choking on the gases. So combined with the bog revs and high coolant / oil temps you see drifting....like i said i would be getting the boost back down to 13psi. Then get the breathing on the engine sorted.

hey seriously i would just dump some extra fuel up top to be safe, the tune is good but if you cracked 6th it was detonating and i would reckon that the tune was the cause.

Knock 3 degrees off the map and add some fuel up near the limiter (depending on how you drive)

im happy to have a look at it one night if you want.

^^ i totally agree with u dude. i really need to piss off this emanage, i watched him tune it, theres f**k all room for fine adjustments with the emanage... could also be the fact that i have a central 20 ecu as well, might be conflicting somewhere??? ahhh if only pfc were cheaper...

I have NA sr20's with td06's runing 19psi with emanage no problems. The emanage is a great unit if the user knows what they are doing.

That boost and those a/f ratios at the top end; you're asking for trouble.

RB25's are known to have weak ring-lands and the boost and leanness of the tune will generate more heat which can cause issues. I personally wouldn't risk it.

I consider anything over 12:1 a/f ratios, on a std RB25 and doing track days a BIG risk.

I ran 18psi, with 11.5:1 a/f ratios and still managed to crack a ring-land, pics below. All other components were in top nick, even the piston top, bore, etc of the cracked piston where completely undamaged.

Don't worry about split pipes or stainless; just get a custom made bell-mouth mild steel dump from a good exhaust shop. Should not cast you too much.

that is the result of det most likely nothing to do with the a/f. I have a few tough mid 300rwkw rb's running leaner than 12.2:1

that said in DJEMS position i would fatten it up as i know nothing of the timing map.

that is the result of det most likely nothing to do with the a/f. I have a few tough mid 300rwkw rb's running leaner than 12.2:1

that said in DJEMS position i would fatten it up as i know nothing of the timing map.

Wouldn't det have shown on top of the pistons?

ie: pitting or rough'ish surface.

Apart from the cracks between the ring-lands, everything else was in pristine condition.

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