Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just a simple little question... gotta HKS 25/40 being installed on my R33 and just contemplating the idea of the screamer pipe...

I had one a while back also on an R33 and sounded wicked under full throttle but really ghey at half throttle.. like an exhaust leak... Just wondering since a HKS 25-40 is obviously laggier than a stock r33 turbo will the crappy exhaust leak noise be minimised at half throttle as it wouldnt spool up as easy/earler as the HKS turbo..??

Thanks!

they sounds pretty lame on any internal gate turbo in my experience. and will always be leaking some gas as it's nigh on impossible to really seal one up as the turbo oulet flange is not designed for that.

Just so you realise the screamer will be VERY loud. I had one for a while but i got rid of it as it was just too loud for me and i love things ear piercingly loud. I once overtook a car with both windows down and the sound rebounding into the car was crazy loud.

You guys probably just havnt heard many screamers done PROPERLY on internal gate turbos.. mine sounded ***** wicked on my old 33 with a 3inch & no cats, 12psi, power fc etc. Only time it sounded ghey was at half thottle.. sounded like a bit of a tractor..

But im thinking with an aftermarket turbo like a HKS 2540 the gate doesnt open as early/easy as it does on a standard turbo so i shouldnt hear much of that tractor noise...

can anyone confirm this?

I think we have just heard to many bad examples of home made screamers on stock R33's etc running near stock boost on standard turbos..

We'll see how it sounds on mine running 16psi on the 2540, plus im now running GTR rods so ill be getting more RPM too :)

an extra 500rpm still makes me happy :)

oh well, we'll see how it sounds on mine. As long as i dont get the tractor noise at half throttle ill be happy, cos the rest sounds good.

Hmm... I'm a wierdo... my BOV is plummed back with a bigger pipe to make less sound... My 3" exhuast isnt the quietest but it sounds like a fart can on an excel when idling and mid revs is just a drone.... sounds fugn aces with WOT.... like an old 70's turbo F1 car only way not...

AND...

I f..g love it.

trust me... any extra noise you get in your car will only serve to shit you in the long term.... specially if you cruise any distance.... unless you can tune it out....

Oh yea... I don't get a second look from police unless their in the mood to make trouble for anyone in particular...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...