Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How hard is it to drop the shaft to make a GTR 33 run in RWD only?

Does anyone have a step by step?

Or pics etc?

How hard is it? Anything needed to do it?

Just looking at going to an event and it has a dyno, but only a rear wheel drive dyno...

Any help would be good thanks

Ps not sure if its the right section soz!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233703-dropping-the-shaft/
Share on other sites

it will take about 10 min max. You need 2x12mm spanners (preferably 1 of them a ring spanner as it might be tight). Also a 14mm socket or spanner to remove the clutch slave cylinder.

just jack the drivers side of the car up and unbolt the 2 14mm bolts holding the slave cylinder on, then let that hang out of the way and undo the 4 12mm nuts and bolts on the front diff end of the front shaft. Remove all 4 bolts and pull the shaft away from the front diff and the front flange will drop down and then pull the shaft towards the front of car and the gearbox end will slide out. The gearbox hole is sealed so dont bother worrying about fluid leaking out or anything. Then rebolt the clutch slave cylinder back on and away u go.

Edited by unique1

Go buy a white and another colour paint pen and mark the edges of the shaft with the pens so you know the exact location when re-assembly is required.

I've seen the R32 boys pull a fuse and stop the 4WD that way, sorry dont know too much about the R33's.

On my 4WD laser I was told never to do this-disconnect the shafts- by plenty of people as it can really mess things up.

Have used the paint pens when removing just about everything from hoses, vacuum lines, doors, boots & tailshafts when replacing clutches and the like and its never failed there :(

and its just as easy to put back in???

Also i cant damage anything by doing this?

and no fluids at all will leak???

cheers mate

yes its as easy to put back in, no damage at all, no fluid will leak. I do this on my stagea (running gtr driveline) everytime i do dyno tuning and never caused an issue, i also drive around alot of the time with shaft removed and no problems.

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...