Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows it going fellas..

Beginning tomorrow, I will be performing a whole list of mods to my car..

The car is an 93 gun metal GTR.. 92,2## kms

It is fitted with a

-3.5 cat back

-power fc (regular)

-boost tap

-what looks to be a jecs fpr

-arc pipe with bov

-excedy twin plate

Im giving myself 1 month to get the car ready, prepped and tuned.. Have 1 mate who will be there with me each step of the way and a host of mechanic/ labor/ company friends.

Within that month, I will be moving house x2, recovering from ankle re-con and training hard + work..

-2860-7 turbos, x force dumps (front pipes if the ones on it are stock)

-cooler + piping clean, new joiners and clamps

-044 fuel pump, 800cc injectors

-jjr coil packs and new iridium plugs

-AVCR

-JJR cam gears, gates belt (will let the mech do, as warranty is provided)

-100k service .. basically all fluids, water pump, bearings etc etc

-new pads and braided lines

-removal of air con and hicas + stripping more weight while keeping interior in tact

-perhaps exhaust

- +other things im yet to purchase.. catch can, oil cooler + relocater.

Will do my best to update this thread with all relevant info, pics, trouble shooting and of course questions to pick your brains..

So far the small list of handy things to have is..

-Pens, note pads, permanent marker

-Boxes and tape

-spill kits and towels to drape over quarter panels

-tire tubes

Tomorrow arvo, il begin with prepping the car for the removal process on saturday..

-Throw the car on stands,

-remove wheels, bonnet, front bar, NS head light

-drain oil, water

If anyone else has some more suggestions or any handy hints that will help/ remind me through the process please add..

oh btw.. lol.

Im quitting smoking and won't be drinking through out the entire months :)

^^^ meh F**k it, il quit in a month :D

Let the fun begin :)

Tomek

Edited by Tomek
  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Sean..

Have been steadily emptying my wallet for the past few months, it will stay open for another month to come :)

Yep, I have the PDF on file, will endeavour to get the relevant parts printed.

Tomek

Edited by Tomek

044 intank or surge tank setup? AFM's stock?

If you haven't removed and installed turbo's on a 26 before, I sincerely wish you all the best.

also interested in how the jjr coilpacks hold up after they've been used for a while..

044 intank or surge tank setup? AFM's stock?

If you haven't removed and installed turbo's on a 26 before, I sincerely wish you all the best.

also interested in how the jjr coilpacks hold up after they've been used for a while..

In-tank and yes stock afm's, Im chasing 300-320kw so stocker's will be just fine..

Haven't done the turbo's on a 26 before but if, or shall I say when I run into trouble I have a few mates I can call who have done it..

Tomek

Called it a night after 3-4 hours. .

Car is on stands, front bar, bonnet removed.

Dropped the coolant and oil.

Pulled apart the piping to uncover the nightmare of confusion which layed beneath :blink:

Managed to get down to the heat shield's, atm having trouble with what seems the high pressure lines which travel along the side of the motor diversing to the actuators which then keep going to the end of the motor.. I've removed all the bolts but having trouble getting the lines off which are situated in between the head and the fire wall.. Therefore making it hard to get to the shields.

linesmh7.jpg

Will have another look tomorrow, hope im going about it the right way (top to bottom).

On a good note, won't need to replace the front pipes, as the car is fitted with HKS "competition use only" front pipes.. lol

Edited by Tomek

I know there is a clamp in one of those lines where it goes around the back passenger corner of the head, unsure of the other one. It looks to have a joint on a flare nut almost at the very corner of the head. The vacuum hard lines had been removed from my car before I bought it, an ebc lives under the intake filters and has short hose runs to the actuators.

How you are going about it is how I removed mine, working top down mainly. All the gear on top is the easy part, then have fun getting the water and oil feed lines that run along behind the turbos unbolted so that you can get the turbos out of the way.

Putting them back in, I disassembled all the piping and worked under the car bolting it back in, might be something to look at for removal but mine were so tight that it was just going to be nasty no matter what.

Edited by heller44
I know there is a clamp in one of those lines where it goes around the back passenger corner of the head, unsure of the other one. It looks to have a joint on a flare nut almost at the very corner of the head. The vacuum hard lines had been removed from my car before I bought it, an ebc lives under the intake filters and has short hose runs to the actuators.

How you are going about it is how I removed mine, working top down mainly. All the gear on top is the easy part, then have fun getting the water and oil feed lines that run along behind the turbos unbolted so that you can get the turbos out of the way.

Putting them back in, I disassembled all the piping and worked under the car bolting it back in, might be something to look at for removal but mine were so tight that it was just going to be nasty no matter what.

From what I saw there was 2 lines clamped on between the head and firewall ...

May just need to have another good look at it and go from there.. :blink:

Ankle re-con, quitting smoking, training and working... plus working on your GTR. You are a machine!

Good luck man. Removing the air con too, let us know how you go with that.

Mike

Thanks for that Mike, will let you know about the aircon..

DAY 2

So today we couldn't loosen a flare nut of one of the tubes, we used a pipe spanner correct size it would just round and destroy the nut.

probsh0.jpg

We stopped and weighted up out options, in the end we decided to remove the motor and freshen it up a bit... We have all the ancilleries removed atm. Tomorrow we will then drop out the front shafts, still not 100% if we will remove the drive shaft or use the play in it to aid removal of the motor.

Ideas were brewing off a rebuilt motor, big single and ppg box but i quickly toned it down a bit before it got out of hand.

The general plan atm is...

N1 oil pump

Sump baffles

Oil gallery/ return mod (need to research this, i know sydney kid has a thread on this which will be helpful)

Decided against replacing the head gasket at this present moment.. Few people have told me that the standard gasket will be good for 18-19psi. Don't won't to blow my budget out of the water since I picked these -7 turbo's for this very reason.

Will be staying up late tonight to work out what the best route to go would be.

If anyone has suggestion's please share..

Cheers Tomek

If anyone has suggestion's please share..

New harmonic balancer, perhaps a Ross if you don't want to go all out on an ATI? Probably not essential but at least you mind will be more at ease when you hit 8000rpm.

New harmonic balancer, perhaps a Ross if you don't want to go all out on an ATI? Probably not essential but at least you mind will be more at ease when you hit 8000rpm.

Hey Mike..

This hadn't run through my mind! :)

DAY 3

Not much happened today, Spent 4 hours trying to organise a crane from a mate with no out-come.. Made a quick phone call to another mate, had a crane in the garage 25 minutes later..

Sunday must have been somewhat a rest/ family day as no one really showed up to work.. hehe

Only work I managed to do was

-Remove the HKS front pipe

-Pointlessly removed the driver's side wheel assembly (rotor, caliper, shaft cover ... may aswell change the pads and lines over now)

Damn confusing and hard to remove the front driveshafts :rolleyes: Need to get the theory done before I tackle the physical side again.

Next few days, I don't see myself doing much work as House removal's will be going on.

Cheers Tomek

Spent a few hours on the car tonight..

Undid the 6 nuts on the passenger drive shaft, Took of both nuts on the tie rods passenger/ driver. Spent a good 20 minutes removing the split pins out of the thread :(

Attempted to remove the passenger drive shaft with the free play around the diff with no success, dissambeled the brake set-up with no improvement.

Ran out of time to keep working, so cut it short..

If anyone who is reading this has performed this exercise please offer me some advice :)

Six nuts to remove off bolts on the driveshaft to diff flange is all ou need to do.

All you need to do is separate it half an inch or so, so it clears the flange on removing engine.

I ended up removing the front diff cover to push out the rhs drive shaft.

All you need to do is separate it half an inch or so, so it clears the flange on removing engine.

:wub: .. Why didn't I think of that ...

Thanks Sean

Edited by Tomek

Keep up the good work on this thread. I'm enjoying the reading :wub:

I used to live in Townsville (left early last year). If I was there, I would be keen to help out. I used to do sprints, too (grey GTI-R)

Keep up the good work on this thread. I'm enjoying the reading :dry:

I used to live in Townsville (left early last year). If I was there, I would be keen to help out. I used to do sprints, too (grey GTI-R)

Hey man..

Sprints are fun :D What sort of time bracket were you running in?

The sprints and Mt stuart are the car's main focus...

Edited by Tomek
Hey man..

Sprints are fun :D What sort of time bracket were you running in?

The sprints and Mt stuart are the car's main focus...

Yeah I really miss the sprints. Great fun :dry:

I was only doing mid 46s, but my car was near stock and running on 185 street tyres. Now I've got a Stagea 260RS. I'd love to bring it up to see how it compares. Much bigger and heavier car, but seems to handle better than the old GTI-R. I think I saw your car doing Motorkhana, too. My brother-in-law, Jaimen, owns an old black (now half black, half orange) Toyota T18 (previously owned by my brother).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...