Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah so when roughly would it come on do you reckon

My guess(Key word) would be boost by the end of high first gear, quick change full boost by about 4000 to 4500rpm maybe even 5000rpm just depends on the motor.

My 42R comes on about there but has head work and larger exhaust valves. The guy who bought my 25/30 put another 35/40 with a 1.06(1.04??) rear and Ive been told its laggier. I used to get full boost before 4000rpm in second with the .82 rear so you should be in a similar ball park.

If a guess was all you were after, I hope it helps.

Cheers

Bill

My guess(Key word) would be boost by the end of high first gear, quick change full boost by about 4000 to 4500rpm maybe even 5000rpm just depends on the motor.

My 42R comes on about there but has head work and larger exhaust valves. The guy who bought my 25/30 put another 35/40 with a 1.06(1.04??) rear and Ive been told its laggier. I used to get full boost before 4000rpm in second with the .82 rear so you should be in a similar ball park.

If a guess was all you were after, I hope it helps.

Cheers

Bill

Two totally different turbos.

yeah so when roughly would it come on do you reckon

Would help if you could actually identify the turbo. There are about 10 different T04 combinations so just asking when you will make boost is like saying how much hp will I make with 20psi and not stating what turbocharger you actually have.

Two totally different turbos.

I am aware of that (The difference btw turbos) but with the larger rear housing on a stock motor(im assuming no head work, larger throttle etc) the reaction time for full boost would be similar (Hope that is clear as mud).

Btw 4 & 5g in second is where I would guess full boost will occur for this turbo on his motor. Its like guessing jelly beans in a jar but I dont mind guessing and then he can tell us when it does and someone will win (yay).

Mate put it on and open a new thread with the result.

Hey all

Can someone please tell me when a 66mm front wheeled t04 with a 1.00 rear would come on boost on a 30/25.

I know its a stupid question but i just roughly want to know. does anyone have any idea..

If you look through the RB30 turbo results you'll find one of the early results have a T66 with a .84a/r turbine housing running a 25 head - should give you an idea (full boost at 4500rpm for that setup I think). It will be laggier than that :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...