Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wanted to see if dropping out of drive to neutral as often as i could (stopped, rolling into lights) would make a difference to my fuel eco. Its made a huge different now getting about 100Km/10.1L. Just wondering if anyone can think of any reason why i shouldn't do this? possible damage to the transmission or the TC?

I wondered how the it goes finding and appropriate gear if i suddenly put it back into drive while rolling?

cheers

Well when you are stopped at the lights, the engine is under load in anything other than P or N, you can hear the engine unload when you select neutral,park. It does save fuel, it won't damage your gbox. I'd only select neutral when stopped thoiugh, not rolling along in case you need to accelerate in a split second etc.

I wondered how the it goes finding and appropriate gear if i suddenly put it back into drive while rolling?

I've got a friend who does this stupid trick in his manual, and yes it does save SOME fuel, BUT you are sacrificing a degree of control over the car. What if you suddenly need to speed up to avoid someone whose about to rear end you, or dive into the next lane to avoid a someone literally trying to 'merge' with you? In both situations, if you can't plant it and get yourself out of trouble, your a sitting duck. In my opinion, diminished ability to accelerate (or NO ability in this case) is equally as bad as diminished braking capability.

Oh and whatever you do, don't turn the engine off altogether while rolling, like a mate's mate did - the steering wheel locked up and he was killed in a head-on (no 5h1t).

Go buy a econobox if you can't afford the petrol.

Edited by sl33py

I understand what your saying, but I'm pretty selective when i chose to do it, only coming to a halt. I have been racking my brain but cannot think of a situation where planting it will get me out of an accident without causing one at the same time. I was almost taken out by a Hi-lux which got under steer coming around a corner and headed straight for me waiting at the lights, but even then pushing forward into the intersection would have caused an incident also.

I'm more concerned about doing damage to the drive chain. either the fuel saved is huge or my odometer is reading wrong because I'm getting 10.2L per 100Kms consistently without changing anything else.

I can come up with a good reason, its called lubrication. your gearbox has a pump in it the faster you go the more it pumps, if your putting it in N at speed it reduces the oil being pumped. might not sound much but over time it will all add up. At the lights is fine and does work just dont rev up b4 putting it in D, real quick way to blow a gearbox. If u really want to save fuel when ur coming to the lights take your foot off the throttle and pull it through the gears manually, with no throttle and more revs than idle the ecm wont need to let any fuel through to the engine.

Edited by cankas
cannot think of a situation where planting it will get me out of an accident

I know people who have accelerated to narrowly avoid being rear ended by a *^%&tard.

But you do what you want - you're in Bris, I'm in ACT - doesn't bother me :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...