Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, before i go checking every hose etc on the car. i was wondering if anyone has had this problem and knows off the top if their head how to fix it?

1990 r32 gtr, standard ecu. this car has for some reason decided to idle at 1100rpm for a few weeks now. stil runs smooth and nothing has been touched in the engine bay. it also feels a bit underpowered to me. any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234785-r32-gtr-high-idle-1100rpm/
Share on other sites

i know that my manual that i had but lost said that normal idle is 950rpm ish and that i have a nice split turbo outlet pipe and leaks like a mofo so i am at 1100 rpm at my idle now. so yeah just confirming to have a look for that leak.

good luck. good trick try real soapy water arround hose clamps and joins and see if it bubbles.

enjoy

Cheers guys. im gonna chuck a boost gauge on tomorrow n hopefully that tells a tale. i had a similar thing happen on a mitsi gto that turned out to be a leaking hose under the inlet manifold on the old twin turbo v6. i imagine its the same deal here. Are there any hoses other than turbo outlet that are known more than others to leak?

I too have been trying to fight the evil high idle. I have at least stopped it hunting by looking at the guides for cleaning the AAC valve and have recently diagnosed that my idel switch in the TPS doesnt work (I think that anyway). I am sure that I am getting air in maybe near the inlet manifold so Ray at RE Customs said try spraying brake cleaner around. If teh engine changes pitch then the brake cleaner is being taken in and burnt. I am not sure if this will work around the rest of the pressurised system.

Anyway keep us posted on any eventualities

My car used to allways idle around 1200 and now just hunts for idle all the time. engine temp doesn't make difference.

Think I will do the AAC valve first as people seem to have good results. How do I check the Idle switch on the TPS?

Thanks for any assistance.

My car idles at 1600rpm and no obvious boost leaks either. Been like that for a very long time. I don't think i'll get it sorted until i do a rebuild and go over absolutely everything. Car still runs fine and has no other issue.

the 6 throttles that bolt to the head have like a clear coating around them internally where the butterfly's close, if any type of cleaning agent is used inside, say like a system cleaner or carby cleaner, it can eat away at the coating causing the butterfly's never to seal properly again, never spray anything in there...

make sure the idle screw is screwed in, if its all the way in and it idles high, ^^^ is your problem... not fixable on the cheap side and its a off job to do so..

hello again. i put a boost gauge on the car today and it is running between 11-14psi. seems like 12psi most of the time, the car usually runs just over and holds 14psi when it was running correctly. now i've checked hoses etc and all seem to be ok. the two running off the boost solenoid look at bit old but they have always and never caused a problem in the past.

BUT...on further investigation i have found that the injectors on 4th and 5th cylinder appear to be leaking from where they connect to the fuel rail. is this what is causing my high idle possibly?

the car is going on the dyno at created performance next week to see what the hell is goin on with high idle and slight lack of power, but i would like to figure it out before i take it there.....not to avoid cost of checking/repairing, more so i can see what shes really got at the wheels knowing that its running correctly! :laugh:

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP SO FAR GUYS!

the 6 throttles that bolt to the head have like a clear coating around them internally where the butterfly's close, if any type of cleaning agent is used inside, say like a system cleaner or carby cleaner, it can eat away at the coating causing the butterfly's never to seal properly again, never spray anything in there...

make sure the idle screw is screwed in, if its all the way in and it idles high, ^^^ is your problem... not fixable on the cheap side and its a off job to do so..

Yup, I got told this too by my mechanic. He was able to adjust the idle down with the Power FC. Still about 1000 at idle. Said it's a real fiddle to fix.

I had the same problem with high idle, about 1100rpm. I thought it was normal until I looked on the inside of the bonnet one day and I think it said idle should be 950rpm or there abouts.

I got my Vipec V88 installed and my tuner spent a lot of time getting the idle right (as his dyno was getting fixed he had about 3-4 days to do it). Now is sits on about 700rpm and seriously it sounds sweet and never skips a beat.

High idle was with the standard computer by the way.

Mike

the 6 throttles that bolt to the head have like a clear coating around them internally where the butterfly's close, if any type of cleaning agent is used inside, say like a system cleaner or carby cleaner, it can eat away at the coating causing the butterfly's never to seal properly again, never spray anything in there...

make sure the idle screw is screwed in, if its all the way in and it idles high, ^^^ is your problem... not fixable on the cheap side and its a off job to do so..

ahhh nobody has mentioned that to me ever but it makes perfect sense. That could definatley be the culprit. Oh well i'm not really to fussed about it for now as long as it won't damage anything. I'll wait for a rebuild or new motor me thinks before i do anything about it.

How hard is it to take the plenum off to fix this though. Could i do it in a day??? just incase i get bored one weekend. car is off the road anyway for an undetermined amount of time anyway for other reasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...